Are you a real man? Or woman? Like its bottle, Wray & Nephew White Overproof (63%) is a no-nonsense rum that some consider the best overproof in the world. Hey, it's from Jamaica, ask me if I'm surprised. But the first time we poured a shot, we came close to pouring many more shots...
Down the drain.
This rum must be approached with care. Lots of care. But approached properly, you too may come to appreciate this fine rum. Know too that this white overproof graces almost every household in Jamaica. Build a new room - pour some on the floor. Crack the bottle - the first shot goes on the ground, back to nature. Got a cold? Get the W&N. New baby? Rub some on the newborn's forehead. And so it goes...
Wray & Nephew is not a rum, it's an institution. One that we honestly wished to understand. The reviews:
Sue Sea:
Me:The first time Jim broke out this rum I simply loved the aroma. But just about spit out the first healthy sip. Wowee! Yowsa! I guess he should have given the first shot back to nature, not me. Jim waited a respectful few weeks, but when he once again broke out the bottle (wisely at the end of a flight) I was still more than a little fearful.
So Jim diluted it 1-to-1. Too dilute as it turned out, but I was finally able to explore this rum. A second dilution to around 40% got better, and a final try with just a minimal amount of water allowed me to get it all.
I found W&N's aroma a bit alcohol prickly, but this was to be expected. I found anise and licorice, a high (lighter) citrus, what I will call celery/reedy and even some smoke. Its taste was completely consistent (all of the aromas show up). The finish was hot and peppery.
This rum is more like a rum martini. It is fresh and crisp, but also rich and powerful. To my own amazement, I really found this rum unique and intriguing. I'm so glad I gave it a second chance.
The change in rum preferences over the years is amazing. Today we are presented with latest fad - rum a liqueur - as exampled by Zacapa 23, Pyrat XO, Angostura 1919 and the like. Smooth, sweet and way too easy to drink. Rum for non-drinkers.
Not Wray & Nephew White Overproof.
This is a style and product that, along with Appleton Extra, best represent the Jamaican style. It is a rum that must be approached with great care, but will reveal surprising character. It is truly a real rum. If you can't handle that, go back to your Pyrat pussy rum.
As expected there is a definite nasal alcohol tingle. I found the aroma sweet, a high grapefruit - and - with a leathery sourness (which lessens with airing). This aroma is intriguing. The taste, except for the grapefruit, is grassy and entirely consistent. The Overproof's finish is also grassy, hot and peppery, nose and mouth filling.
Like Pusser's Blue Label, this is a rum out of history that deserves much more respect than it gets. Rum snobs sniff and tut at its affordable price and simple bottle. The rest of us assume this is just a white lightening mixer.
How wrong we were.
Rating (10 is best): Sue Sea - 9, Jimbo - 8.
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Note: I was really surprised at Sue Sea's extremely high rating, which to this date has only been awarded to a small handful of exceptional rums (eg MGXO, Seale's Ten Year). She is extremely adept and not easily impressed. That she has given a "9" to a rum of such non-modern character is saying a lot. Also note that this rum earned one of Dave Broom's coveted 5-star ratings (exceptional). Take heed.
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pss.
Some of you may be wondering where the "Go Banana's" description came from. Dave Broom is well respected top taster, and got bananas, molasses and grassy in his tasting. With consideration we actually found this reassuring as we were picking up the same components but using different but similar descriptors:
Broom's "banana" is Sue Sea's "licorice and anise", which is pretty close to ripe banana. His "molasses" is indeed similar to my "leathery sourness" (we have a molasses tester). And last, his "grassy" is Sue Sea's "celery/reedy". Good.
The point: don't sell yourself short if your descriptors may differ (as long as they are similar).