Mixed Drink in a Bottle Dept: Canadian Whisky?

[Capn Jimbo]

As some of you know, I'm not a big fan of Canadian Whisky and for good reason...


Their regulations allow the addition of up to 9.09% of any other spirits, domestic or imported, and/or wine (not to mention caramel coloring). Any of our readers who remain sentient know that when the industry spends millions to lobby for favorable regulation they (a) get them and (b) tend to use them.

Even though Davin Kergommeaux recognizes the 9.09% rule, he insists that the industry doesn't really use them, although he will admit that Canadian whisky is largely made up of what's called CWS (Candian Whisky Spirits). CWS is distilled to near neutral (94.8%), which is as close as you can get to GNS (grain neutral spirits) as is humanly possible.

This is exactly why the 9.09% rule exists. What is called "Canadian Whisky" is mostly CWS (near vodka), plus the addition of actual whisky (called "flavouring whisky" in the trade). This is where the 9.09% rule comes into play. The rule allows the addition of ANY spirit - foreign or domestic - made in Canada or imported, and/or actual cheap wine to be added up to 9.09%.


This doesn't include sugar - or does it?

The Canadian regs say no - only "flavouring spirits" may be added. But, but how 'bout the wine? Wine of course, does contain some grape sugars. And that's not all. The 9.09% rule says any other spirit - repeat ANY - may be added. Spirits are defined there and they include everything you can think of: gin, vodka, real whisky (not CWS), tequila, brandy, rum and liqueurs. Any and all spirits - from anywhere.

Obviously many of these "spirits" (eg rum or liqueurs) DO contain sugar. Now of course Davin will dispute this, but unfortunately without citation.


My theory: Canadian Whisky DOES contain sugar per se

OK for now we knew that CW contains CWS, real whisky (for "flavouring) and whatever is legal under the 9.09% rule (any other spirit or wine from anywhere). Be honest - many of you have tried Canadian Whiskies and no doubt have found them unusually tasty or even sweet and almost always, suspiciously smooth. They don't taste at all like American bourban or rye, nor like Scotch whiskey, and not like Irish Whisky. Not even close.

Now I have a decent palate enough to note that what is called Canadian Whisky frankly does taste altered. It just does. Surely you agree. But hey - I'm accused of just being a negative curmudgeon, just as both JaRiMi and I were considered insofar as sugar in rum, almost a decade ago.

Well, we were not alone insofar as rum - a big thanks to ALKO et al, and guess what?


I'm not wrong about Canadian Whisky!

Let's start by examining a whisky recommended to me by both Davin and urp, the Wolfboy: Canadian Club Classic 12. I'd asked for a recommendation that represent a classic Canadian Whisky that I should try and taste with an open mind. CCC12 was the one. Both Sue Sea and I gave it a fair shake - repeatedly - but sorry, it just wasn't happening.

We'd tried many good whiskies - Scotch, Irish, bourbon and rye but the Canadian Club was just... different. It simply tasted altered.


OK, enough, enough! Get to the point!

The point? Fine. Today I finally did what I've been threatening for months. I hydro'd the Canadian Club Classic 12. The envelope please...

Tested out at a corrected 38.3%, ergo 7 grams of sugar.

And that my friends, is HUGE. It confirms my tastebuds, my suspicions, the interpretation of the 9.09% rule, and any suspicions about the willingness of Canadian distillers to use it. Now to be fair, I'm not about to condemn Canadian Whisky on one test, despite the fact that it represent a very large and very well respected distiller. Personally I suspect that like rum, some CW does not contain sugar but sadly, many others will.

Time will tell.

[Capn Jimbo]

Special Request:


It's time to add Canadian Whisky as yet another prime candidate for the Master Sugar List, albeit in a separate section.

Would all of you who have so graciously tested and reported sugaring of rum please also test your Canadian whisky and please post your results...

[The Black Tot]

Canadian whisky seems to be knocking at the door of a change.

The Crown Royal "Hand selected barrel" series (in quotes because hands have nothing to do with it and it was also not a single barrel product, having had very wide distribution), was 103 proof and claimed to be all flavoring whisky with no GNS added.

I have some in the US. It's pretty good, and certainly decent whisky value at around the $50 it sells for.

Also, it can't have escaped the notice of project readers that CR's Northern Harvest release got Jim Murray's endorsement as whisky of the year.

I suggest that these two be tested specifically. And no, I'm not in the US right now so I don't have access to my bottles.

It is also true that a portion of the US boutique ryes are stock purchased from Alberta. Whistlepig and the older Jefferson's 10yr are two examples. They may be bottled and sold in the US, but they are also Canadian whisky.

I'm not sure what mechanism is screwing Canadians out of developing a whisky culture - but something is. Horrible duties on bringing whisky home from abroad and a very high rate of taxation on bottles are two good reasons.

I also suspect Davin and his ilk are another - people in charge of the manufacturing who insist that it be adulterated in the name of the preservation of "the national style". Canadians for the most part have to go south of the border to buy a proper version of their own nation's products.

Alberta recently privatized its alcohol distribution system. I haven't been there since, but it will be interesting to see how the culture in that province develops differently from the rest of the country in the coming years.

[Who-is-this-Ron-guy?]

Interesting observations about Canadian whisky culture, Black Tot. There certainly are "pockets" of whisky culture in places other than Alberta, but they almost universally revolve around whiskies that are not widely available in Canada (and are not Canadian whisky). In Ontario, the state controlled liquor board is one of the largest purchasers of wine and spirits in the world, yet we are gouged with prices and the selection is laughably meagre. You compare this to Alberta's private system, where a single proprietor offers more variety and cultivates a more significant spirits culture in one month that the entire province of Ontario can in an entire year!

The anoraks have been beating the drums of change for a while, but we are such a small proportion of the market that our pleas are insignificant compared to the predilections of the masses. If 90% of the market wants bottom shelf mixers and stock standard whiskies then that's what the LCBO (or other state monopoly) is going to carry.

I, too, would be curious to see if the shifts in Alberta lead to any significant change in the whisky industry overall. More importantly, I'd be curious to see if a change (in any) bleeds over into the Canadian market. There is already a widespread appreciation for Scotch and American whiskies that dwarfs appreciation for the Canadian.

[Who-is-this-Ron-guy?]

Special Request:


It's time to add Canadian Whisky as yet another prime candidate for the Master Sugar List, albeit in a separate section.

Would all of you who have so graciously tested and reported sugaring of rum please also test your Canadian whisky and please post your results...

I echo the Capn's call for testing Canadian whisky. The possibility of additives is significant, and the industry is quite clandestine about it. We get a lot of promises that "good" Canadian whisky does not make use of the 9.09% additives, but that's a leap of faith I am not willing to take from industry shills or the industry itself. Conducting the sugar tests will bring some much needed transparency to Canadian whisky.

I always tell people that the best "Canadian" whisky I ever had was a 25 year old Invergordon grain whisky bottled by AD Rattray. Invergordon is, of course, scotch, but it's grain whisky with a "Canadian" character. The main difference - no filtration, no additives, cask strength, and legitimately aged. I'd pay to try a similar product from Forty Creek or Wisers or CR.

[Capn Jimbo]

Two more tests:

• 1. An rather old bottle of common Canadian Club (3 year, 40%, 1 liter): 39.6% = 1.5g
  
  2. A newish bottle of Forty Creek Barrel Select: 39.8% = 1g

A couple of observations:

1. It is notable that while this rather old bottle of CC tests acceptably, the relatively new bottle of Canadian Club Classic 12 Year came in at 7 grams - a very significant alteration to a very popular and well accepted release by a major Canadian distiller.

2. Despite these latest tests, it is well to remember that the 9.09% rule remains in force for a reason: it was heavily lobbied for and was not made law on a whim. The law when passed clearly reflected how the bulk of Canadian whiskey was made, and the 9.09% rule was surely lobbied for, not to mention the common use of near vodka CWS for the bulk of the blend.

"Hi Capn Jimbo, like most Canadian Whiskies, we use only near neutral spirit.

The spirit is of high alcohol content 95% then blended down to 65-75% depending on the grain and aged for the minimum 3 years. We do all of our flavor blending for our whiskies after the spirits have been aged.

Sheldon Hyra
National Sales Manager
SHyra@Highwood-Distillers.com
Highwood-Distillers.com"

Thus however the sugar tests finally turn out, we can assume that added wine - either as is or distilled into brandy - is a factor that cannot be ignored and may well account for the most unusual and sherry-like profiles of CW.

Another request: it will be of great value to our whisky lovers if any of you who have some CW would kindly test it/them and report your result... Gracias!

[Capn Jimbo]

An open letter to Davin Kergommeaux, author of "Canadian Whisky"{...


I have had a very postive relationship with Davin over the years. He is to be commended for being the first to promote the Petition to Save Caribbean Rum, and personally contacted Dave Broom - both of them then signed the petition.

Still, I felt obligated to post the following comment at his CanadianWhisky.org (subject to moderation). I await his posting and answer...

"G'day Davin...

As you may know, in the interest of transparency, the Project published the Master List of Sugar Tests, of rums tested by Finland (ALKO), and Sweden, plus independent testing by Johnny Drejer and a number of participating rum webmasters.

A total of about 550 tests were performed, that revealed that about half of them tested positive for the hidden addition of sugar. Oddly, some of the worst violators were in the super premium class, with up to 48 grams of sugar per liter.

Shocking.

Recently one of our readers - inappropriately concerned over the 9.09% rule - thought it would be educational to start testing Canadian whiskies for sugar content. As it happened the first one tested was Canadian Club Classic 12 Year.

The result? CCC12 contained 7 grams of sugar per liter, a significant amount of sugar which absolutely alters its profile. Pure whiskies either test with no sugar at all, or at the worst, perhaps a gram or two (attributed to wood extractives). However, 7 grams is quite a lot - this amounts to nearly two teaspoons of sugar in a 1 liter bottle.

(Error - "rum" was corrected to "sugar", thanks to the Tot)

Not good, and to be honest, rather shocking. Now we know that secret alteration of rums is commonplace, mostly to smooth and slightly sweeten the product (at the cost of duplicity and smothering of the profile), but Canadian whisky? I'd thought not.

So where are these two teaspoons of sugar coming from? And then I considered the 9.09% rule - could this amount be attributed to added wine? Or is it possible that - like rum distillers - that adulterants like sugar or glycerol are added for as yet, reasons unknown.

A mystery, yes, and a concern as well. The answers are unknown, but that sugar is present is inarguable. BTW, a Forty Creek product tested at just 1 gram, and in comparison may be considered pure and unaltered."

*******
http://www.canadianwhisky.org/reviews/c ... c-vol.html

[The Black Tot]

"However, 7 grams is quite a lot - this amounts to nearly two teaspoons of rum in a 1 liter bottle. "

If you have time to edit, fix the rum to sugar in this statement.

Nobody blames you for having rum on the brain

[mamajuana]

Canadian Whisky really takes me back a bit. I have not had any in a few years, that last being a bottle of Crown a boss bought me at Christmas a few years ago. Being on the boarder that may sound odd. I did drink my share in college when cash was tighter. I still remember my all time favorite. Black Velvet. At 10 dollars or less a bottle it was a steal. I barely remember a Christmas day when I may have been under age consuming almost entire vintage bottle from my deceased grandfathers collection. After some very colorful conversation full of sexual innuendos, as least as far as I was told and passing out, I ended up being carried out of there, after apparently I fell over attempting use the toilet into the bathtub knocking over the shower curtain, then pissed and barfed into my grandmothers bed, and woke up with barf all over myself in my parents home on a couch.

In college If I felt like spending a few extra dollars at 12 a bottle you could have an 8 year age statement Black Velvet reserve. While I have no Canadian Whisky on my shelves as I don't purchase it, I may have to revisit the Black velvet 8 year, as 12 dollars seems rather cheap for an 8 year and do a hydro test.

Sorry for the drudgery here just recalling some of my Canadian Whisky experience. Nor do I promote over consumption, rather this be a story against it.

[Capn Jimbo]

What I would ask any of us to reflect upon...


...is simple. We've all come to appreciate fine spirits, but in this case all manner of fine single malts, Scotch and Irish whiskies and bourbon, not to mention straight ryes, corn whiskies and the like - but don't you find that Canadian whiskies taste different? Sweeter, lighter, smoother and with profiles that well, just don't seem whisky-like?

I do.

Now Canadian whisky distillers would have you believe that the relatively modern 9.09% rule - heavily lobbied for - is urp, simply not used? Really? Davin K is quite clear about this: an expert and author specializing in CW, he states that he doesn't know of any Canadian distillers who take advantage of the rule, who uses wine, who cheats or who uses much CWS (near neutral spirit).

To the contrary I've repeatedly posted several admissions and even an email from distillers who freely admit the substantial use of CWS in their "blends". Even Davin's book quotes the use of CWS. Now while they don't admit the use of allowable wine (and ANY other imported or domestic spirits) under the 9.09% rule, it should be obvious to most that SOMETHING is going on.


Trusting your tongue...

So far the CW's have gotten a pass, but I do think it's time to take a closer taste. The recent test of Canadian Club Classic 12 Year revealed 7 grams of sugar, which by itself indicates that yes Houston, we have a problem. Either sugar or sweet wine is being added, or may be attributed to allowable flavouring spirits (read ANY other spirit, domestic or imported).

I would urge those of you who have a hydro to please test your CW's for sugar, but also re-taste them with an eye toward added wine or "flavouring" spirits. Thanks...

[Capn Jimbo]

FWIW...


...just a short note to let all know that Canadian Whisky has been added to the sugar tests. I was able to find 8 tests done by ALKO and the Swedes, plus 3 tests done by yours truly.

Of these 10 tests only the Canadian Club Classic 12 Year showed significant levels of sugar - 7 grams. The other tests averaged about 1 to 1.5g, of no concern insofar as sugar. But just like rum, sugar is only one of a number of adulterants, including glycerol, artificial flavors or spices, extracts and wine with only one exception: in the case of CW wine is permitted.

Keep in mind too the 9.09% rule - a huge percentage - includes also what are called "flavouring spirits".


So what's in the CW mixed-drink-in-a-bottle?

1. A major, if not THE major component is CWS (Canadian Whiskey Spirit distilled to nearly 95%), which for all practical purposes is akin to a vodka, albeit in the case of CW an aged vodka.

2. Domestic "flavouring spirits" which are actual whiskies made from the usual grains (rye, corn, barley et al). These are good and flavorful whiskies, but added only as flavorings to the aged vodka.

3. ANY other spirits - domestic or imported - may be also added as "flavouring". By "spirits" the Canadian regs include the usual suspects - vodka, whisky, rum, tequila, brandy, liqueurs, and the like. ANY of them may be added and may include their own flavorings and sugar.

4. Wine. Davin K. states that some of the wine is distilled. though why he doesn't call this brandy is curious.


Four facts that should concern lovers of pure spirits:

• 1. The 9.09% rule is fairly modern, and was lobblied and legislated for a reason, probably because this was a common practice.
  
  2. Canadian whisky distillers are VERY careful to avoid stating the recipes for any of their blends (almost all CW is a blend). Compare to bourbon or Scotch/Irish blends and single malts where we know exactly what was fermented and distilled.
  
  Consider too that the newly annointed World's Best Whisky - Crown Royal Northern Harvest Rye - goes nuts telling you everything possible about the 90% rye content but not a single word about the remaining 10%.
  
  3. Canadian Club is a mega-producer. That their CC Classic 12 year tested at 7 grams should mean something.
  
  4. For the most part Canadian whisky profiles are unusual and surprisingly smooth, light and displaying profiles that don't much resemble the pure world whiskys we have come to know and love.

To CW's credit, all of their whiskies are bonded and you may depend on an age of at least 3 years. Also, there are an emerging number of a few truly pure batch products. But these have to compete against the vast bulk of mixed blends. So far they have not done a good job of distinguishing themselves, thus pitting typical CW's against a few pure CW's.

Again testers - please have at it.