Myth Buster Dept: WIRSPA's "True Rum"

[Capn Jimbo]

It's no secret that I dislike WIRSPA...


...and this includes their butt kissing toadies such as the Badassitor of Rum. They've more than earned my disrespect. Some of you may be aware of such fun exposes as (a) the BA's lack of knowledge of just what countries constitue the Carib, or (b) WIRSPA's flagrant attempt to cut a deal with Canada such that only their self-created ACR ("Authentic Carib Rum") countries would be allowed to use the word "Caribbean" on their Canadian labels. In return, they protected the term "Canadian Whisky" in their kiss ass "approved" countries.

What a joke. Links at the end...


But there's more...

Turns out that WIRSPA now want to graciously explain to all the rum dummies just what a "True Rum" is, ergo they have devoted the usual slick site to it, here:

http://www.wirspa.com/rum-making/creatingtruerum.html

This new and wonderful page then spews the usual simplistic and self-serving drivel that as always, is designed to sell rum as it is, with no real and true explanation. Ergo, I just hadda drop them the following email:

"Dear Sirs:

I was pleased to find that you have and promote a web site dedicated to "True Rum", but have a few questions:

1. On your page regarding the making of rum, you refer to only two processes: batch using a pot still, and continuous using what seems to
describe a 2 column (analyzer/rectifier) Coffey still. You do NOT mention the substantial use of industrial output multi-column stills.

Does this mean that such large, multi-column factories are not producing "True Rum"?

http://www.wirspa.com/rum-making/creatingtruerum.html

2. On that same page you describe the sources ofresh cane juice and/or of molasses but you do not mention the use of cane syrup honey.

Does this mean that "True Rum" cannot be produced using thickened or stored cane juice or sugar syrups or honeys as they are called?

3. On that same page you do mention the aging of rum in mostly oak barrels, but you make no mention of any proof of age such as bonding or government supervision (as used in Canada for whisky, and under "bonding" in the US regulations).

What proof do we have that the ages appearing on the label are (a) accurate and (b) represent the youngest rum in the bottle.

4. On that page there is no mention of added but unlabelled sugar, yet the official government tests of Sweden and Finland have revealed that many bottles labelled "Rum" (not "flavored rum") actually contain hidden added sugar up to as much as 41 grams/liter. Example: Zacapa 23, Diplomatico Reserva Exclusiva.

Does this mean that sugar can be secretly added to a rum and it still qualifies as "True Rum"?

5. Likewise is the issue of other hidden additives such as glycerol, unannounced or unlabelled flavorings and spices and even wine. Example: as a result of a lawsuit over their formula, the US 8th District Federal Appellate Court's findings revealed that Ron Matusalem's "formula" includes both prune and vanilla extract - yet - their product is still labelled simple "Rum" (and not "flavored rum").

Does this mean that flavoring additives may be used in "True Rum", without labelling or indicating the product is altered/flavored?


Cordially,
Capn Jimbo
The Rum Project: with six million annual reads and growing..."

Stay tuned and as always, your comments are appreciated...




*******
http://www.rumproject.com/caribbean.html
http://www.rumproject.com/WIRSPA.html

[Capn Jimbo]

WIRSPA answers. Sort of...

• "Dear Sir,
  
  Thank you for your message sent to wirspa@wirspa.com.
  
  Our website was created a few years ago before some of the issues you raise were current. It was intended as a basic introduction to rum rather than as a resource for 'experts'. We will be looking to update the site over the coming months.
  
  In answer to your questions:
  
  1. There is no restriction on the type of still used.
  
  2. Any type of sugar cane source material is permitted - fresh juice, syrup or molasses.
  
  3. All countries have diligent customs and excise departments. Rum is normally stored in a bonded warehouse under customs supervision and companies are required to provide evidence of ageing for export products.
  
  Regulation requires that we adopt the 'youngest rum in the blend' custom as for other serious spirits.
  
  4 and 5. Sweetening is not prohibited. Our latest regulation developed prior to 2008 prohibited the use of flavours (but not sweetening) in anything called 'rum'. We do not prohibit flavoured/spiced products but they must be labelled appropriately.
  
  
  Thank you for your enquiry.
  
  WIRSPA
  West Indies Rum & Spirits Producers' Assn. Inc.
  Mars House, #13 Pine Road, Belleville
  St. Michael BB11113, Barbados, W.I.
  Tel: (246) 228-8033
  Fax: (246) 228-9003
  
  Email: carolann.doyle@wirspa.com
  Website: www.wirspa.com
  ACR Website: www.acr-rum.com
  Twitter: https://twitter.com/ACR_Rum"

I am disturbed by a couple of things. First, that it is not entirely clear to me that "Rum is normally stored in a bonded warehouse under customs supervision and companies are required to provide evidence of ageing for export products."

I am particularly shocked that WIRSPA allows "sweetening" without labeling as somehow different from flavoring or spicing, which they believe MUST be so labelled. Please note that they ignored the proven example of Matusalem's use of vanilla and prune extracts in a products labelled "rum" (and not "flavored rum"), which I offered as part of my question.

Please also note that I'd raised the specific issues of Zacapa and Diplomatico with sugar levels up to 41 grams, which they apparently find acceptable to still label as "rum". I do plan follow-up questions which include:

• 1. Can you name the ACR countries that bond all products designated for export?
  
  2. Are these products designated for export already bottled? Or do they leave the facility for blending and bottling?
  
  3. If it can be shown that Ron Matusalem products labelled "rum" do in fact contain added extracts of vanilla and prunes, what is WIRSPA's position?
  
  4. What is your protocol and actions for such cheating? Would WIRSPA fine or punish Matusalem in some way, and/or demand that they change their labels to admit the addition of such flavorings?

Friends, if you have any other suggested questions I'd like to know. I also plan to devise a question asking them their position of US law, which includes sugar under the flavoring clause.

[Capn Jimbo]

WTF? Seriously...


I don't mean to "bump" my own post, but I fear that some of you may have missed two VERY important WIRSPA claims...

First, that they (not the US) DO allow sweetening, and second their claim that exported products are "normally bonded and supervised, and that evidence of age provided"?! Really? Really? I find this hard to believe and am taking steps to verify my sincere doubts. And I still would love to hear your reactions to WIRSPA's incredible email, and do provide any added questions you'd like to ask.

In the interest of efficiency, I have now asked the additional questions listed in the above post.

[The Black Tot]

I might include in a reply:

"our membership and readership look forward to your site's revisions in the upcoming months, and are happy to help in any way we can.
We urge you strongly to reconsider your position on undisclosed sugaring. As you have mentioned, the issues in the world of rum are changing over time, and the category is getting a new level of attention from a massive category of spirits enthusiasts who are ready to embrace a pure category of rum, produced to the standards of disclosure that they are attracted to in the world of prestigious whiskys, brandys, and other fine spirits.

A unique window of opportunity has opened for authentic premium rum, largely because the unprecedented groundswell of whisky enthusiasm in recent years has caught the whisky industry by surprise, leaving demand so much greater than supply that a large swath of enthusiasts have now become pressured by price and limited availability to experiment outside their usual categories. Rum is now sitting at the greatest crossroads we will see in our lifetimes with an opportunity to raise its station and sit next to the world's finest single malts on the shelves of the world's top enthusiasts - outspoken opinion leaders who have the power to drive a new era of high-margin rum demand going forward far into the future.

It is critical that we understand that the prestige of other wine and spirit categories have always gone hand in hand with strict labeling requirements that give the enthusiast the assurances they require that the contents of the bottles they buy are accurately represented by the data on the label. The Scotch Whisky Association's overseeing of single malt labeling practices, the TTB in the US governance of the strict forbidding of additives in the production of bourbon, the appelation requirements of Bordeauxs and Champagnes, etc.

Additives in rum are the major concern for this yet-untapped wave of spirits consumers, who alone are capable of raising rum to a level of premium acceptance which will surely expand the success and market share of producers throughout the Caribbean into a much brighter future.

These consumers specifically demand knowing when sugar has been added to a rum, because sugar is an additive that, regardless of its place in rum's history, is indelibly associated with deception among this critically important enthusiast market, who are coming from a history with spirits that are directly praised in relation to how little additives or alterations have been involved in production. That no association is willing to require the disclosure of the amount of added sugar on a rum label leads them to assume that no rum is trustworthy. Until this is changed, it is specifically this lack of trust which will hold artisan rum back away from the prestigious space it now briefly has the chance to secure.

This is WIRSPA's moment. Sugar content labeling cannot be left off the table if rum is to succeed with this massive new wave of consumers.

This window of opportunity which we are presently seeing will not stay open long. In another 5-8 years dramatically increased production of American whiskey will start to come online for sale, followed by increased production of Scottish single malt in 10-12yrs. If the rum category cannot today take the necessary steps to meet this opportunity halfway with labeling standards befitting of a premium spirit, it will miss the boat, with very real economic consequences for artisan producers, as competition between rums and affordable whiskeys will become tougher than ever. Establishment of trust via labeling and the resultant growth in authentic premium market share in the short term will serve rum well when this competition strikes.

Business and labeling as usual has been a part of the string of closures of some of the greatest distilling treasures in the Caribbean. We strongly urge you, via the implementation of clear and strong labeling requirements for addition to rum of anything, especially sugar - to play a vigorous part in a disclosure and trust development movement that allows rum to capitalize on the historic opportunities now briefly available to its most authentic producers."

[bearmark]

Cheers to The Black Tot... nicely done!

[Capn Jimbo]

Brilliant... better than I could have done, a big and sincere thanks to the Tot! Perhaps we should create a petition which will then be forwarded to them.

Simply great post. I will put together a nice letter, perhaps a hard copy, to be delivered by certified mail.

[Capn Jimbo]

Hey Tot... and all...


I think such a petition is well worthwhile and will soon be established, thanks to the Tot's eloquent observations and pleas. If anyone else wishes to add their own commentary, please do so soon and I will find a way to create a unified document worthy of a good petition.

In the meanwhile, this was sent to WIRSPA. The proof of their sincerity will be whether or not they answer these three well-founded follow up questions...

"Thank you for your prompt and informative reply. Based on it, may I ask these follow-up questions:

1. Can you name the ACR countries that bond all products designated for export, in government sealed and supervised warehouses?

2. Are these products designated for export already bottled? Or do they leave the facility for blending and bottling?

3. If it can be shown that Ron Matusalem products labelled "rum" do in fact contain added extracts of vanilla and prunes (it can), what is or would be WIRSPA's position?

Cordially,
Capn Jimbo
The Rum Project
http://rumproject.com/rumforum/

[The Black Tot]

Go for it, Jimbo!

[Capn Jimbo]

Don't hold yer breath...


...as quickly as WIRSPA answered my first email, they have disappeared into the woodwork when I asked them for specifics regarding their allegation that Caribbean rums for export are bonded and must provide evidence of age.

When I asked them to name specific WIRPA countries that do this? Nada. And when I asked them to specifically comment on their policy that flavored rums must be so labeled, insofar as Ron Matusalem?

Ibid. Crickets. Stay tuned...

[JaRiMi]

Wasn't WIRSPA also including Pyrat into their ACR Rum category for the longest time?

That alone makes ridicule of their claim of no other additives than sugar. Pyrat is more akin to citrus liqueurs like Cointreau - more so than any other rum.

If there is just good will, text on paper but no control, testing or sanctions, well...We might as well go back to playing the game that all rum is pure rum, since they say so.