I adore Appleton Estate's rums, and have only the highest regard for Joy Spence and her blending skills. Right up there with Jerry Edwards of Mount Gay.
But every once in awhile, we all go a bit overboard, particularly when we are recognized for competance and especially after a dram or two too many of say, Appleton Estate 12 Year. Joy is no exception:
Emphasis added. Joy obviously has a handle on all the terroir-based buzz words common - and credible - in the world of wine. She wants us to believe that sugar cane displays the same terroir (qualities attributable to variety, and local conditions) as wine. Real experts can taste a wine and tell you the locale, sometimes even the winery from which it emanated!I chose the rums that make up this blend because they reflect the elements of terroir that are exclusive to the Appleton Estate. The Nassau Valley’s rich fertile soil and unique microclimate that features warm days, gentle afternoon showers and cool nights are the perfect conditions for growing sugar cane and tropically ageing rum.
In addition, the pure water from the Estate’s natural spring; the varieties of sugar cane that we cultivate and our one-of-a-kind copper pot stills all contribute to the unique qualities and distinctive character of Appleton Estate Exclusive Edition.
But not sugar cane! Ever.
The reasons are simple. Molasses based rums are based on the recycling of leftover molasses from sugar production, usually 2nd or 3rd boil. The cane is grown and harvested to maximize sugar production, not the quality of molasses and/or the rum that is made from it. By the way the absolute lack of terroir was long ago discussed on this forum (here).
Jamaica especially has a large and thriving sugar industry managed by a consortium, Jamaica Cane Products Sales Limited (JCPS), which manages and distributes international sales of sugar and its byproduct molasses. The eight or so sugar factories all operate under significant government control and ownership. Sugar is extremely important to Jamaica and every effort is made to encourage and maximize its production.
Let's get real.
All rum distillers go nuts promoting their special water and condition, romance the tropics, even its history of plantation slavery. But honest - it's all hype. To make matters worse, the molasses market is such that WIRSPA - who tried and failed to define "Caribbean rum" - actually stated that the basic raw material - the molasses - can be imported from outside the Caribbean!
So much for terroir, sorry Joy. But your rums are heavenly anyway...
