It is likely that among the earliest alcohol bearing drinks was wine. Every country and culture has made and enjoyed it. It is indisputably one of the first noble spirits or drinks. It was not long before the early alchemists produced "spirits" thought to have special properties - medicinal, physical, spiritual and communal.
When much later rum came along, rum competed with wine, beer and brandy. People loved their spirits and governments competed fiercely to serve that need and enrich their treasuries. Taxes, tariffs and laws were passed, wars fought and navies engaged. Even nature entered the fray in the form of grape destroying fungal epidemics.
France and its wine and brandies was a fierce competitor. Brandies were produced in the Cognac region (cognac), and in World War II's Normandy (calvados). Both of these fine spirits should be of interest to rum lovers who value the lessons and traditions of history.
Knowing and appreciating other fine spirits will add immeasurably to your enjoyment of fine and unaltered rums. Calvados, from selected varieties of spirit apples, was already discussed (here).
Armagnac is yet another important spirit you should try.
As you might guess, armagnac is a cousin of cognac (brandy) and is also distilled from fermented grapes. But there are a number of differences for today's rum experimenter...
1. Cognac (from the Cognac region) is dominated by a number of very large companies who produce it in very large quantities. Armagnac (from the region of the same name) is a much smaller region, and is produced by a group of relatively small and artisinal producers.
2. Cognac is double distilled and generally aged in French limosin oak (which adds spicy flavors). Armagnac is single distilled, in relatively small batches and often in classic copper alambic stills. It is aged in expensive French "Black Oak". Indeed the stills were transported by donkey cart from farm to farm as needed, to distill the local grapes. This "backstory", unlike the made up bullshit stories of many rum distributors (think Panama Red), is completely true.
3. Although both spirits are rated in systems from unaged, to VS, to VSOP, XO, Hors d'Age, Vintage and the like, armagnac tends to be aged longer at the same rating, and present with more complexity and flavors, no doubt due to the careful single distillation and unique black oak aging.
4. Cognac is widely available with prices beginning at higher levels than rum and proceeding to prices well above the finest spirits in the world. Fifty year old cognacs are sold at prices that require a bank loan to even consider. Armagnac likewise insofar as prices but unlike cognac, is VERY hard to locate.
For example while Total Wine carries about 60 cognacs (at up to $1800), their selection of armagnac is but 12 in number, and these from just 3 distillers (up to $300). Most retailers in South Florida have no armagnac or perhaps a lone bottle or two.
But please don't be put off!
It is certainly possible to find a good VSOP (sipping quality) brandy at reasonable prices. I'd suggest the following...
1. Berneroy VSOP Calvados at just $19.99 (a best buy!),
2. Camus Elegance VSOP at $33.95 (although the VS at $23.95 may do nearly as nicely), and last,
3. Chateau de Laubade Armagnac VSOP at $39.95.
As far as flavors go, let me share Total Wine's description:
Having tasted all three I'd especially recommend the Calvados for its rumlike qualities and the Armagnac for its hearty but entirely smooth and balanced presentation (think Appleton 12 Year).Total Wine: "Armagnac has been described as earthy, full-bodied and nutty, with floral overtones of violets and a hint of fruit such as plums, prunes, peaches or grapes. Armagnac, with its spirity, fiery quality is similar to Cognac but with a stronger flavor and aroma, with a dry, fuller-bodied taste."
If you consider yourself a rum afficianado, you owe it to yourself to understand these distant, fine relatives of history. Like the few pure and unaltered rums, all the cognac, calvados and armagnacs - all of them - are absolutely pure, with no added coloring, flavors or additives of any kind.
Enjoy!
