My, my, oh where, oh where do we begin? A little background: Sue Sea and I have tasted so many rums, wines and single malt whiskeys that we no longer can get all that excited about a new offering. Such offerings come and go - in the world of rogue rum this often turns out to be yet another artificially flavored young rum named "Razzberry Dazzle" or some such crapola. Or maybe Zaphra "21". All with syrupy sweet marketing design, copy and promotion. Am I impressed?
Not.
Let's face it. the really, really good and pure rums are few and far between and have been around for awhile. These are produced by legendary distilllers like Richard Seale, Joy Spence, and Jerry Edwards to name a few. Or by unnamed artists at such distilleries as El Dorado or Barbancourt. It really takes years (five or more) to really establish a good rum, and many more to perfect it.
But new rums do arise, and some of them are suspiciously high priced in luxurious bottles. Again, think Zaphra. Or - if you were lucky - you ran across Dos Maderas, which I saw at an un-rumlike price of $39 (or even higher). New rums don't usually make it (up to 70% fail), and together with the mortgage inducing price points the marketing guys demand based mostly on their permanent smiles, overflowing confidence and lasting erections (exceeding four hours), cause me to exit stage left.
Quickly.
Dos Maderas ("two woods" in Spanish) is one of these and accordingly remained one of the very few rums I remained steadfast in not owning. But then a miracle appeared. We are incredibly blessed to have some of the most well stocked, best priced liquor stores in the world. These are owned by clever and aggressive Indian merchant families who substitute otherwise expensive store design and large size (think ABC or Total Wine) for smaller square footage outlets, featuring close spaced ordinary shelving, all literally brimming with heavily discounted spirits and wines of all kinds. I often save 25% over other's discount prices.
I happened upon Dos Maderas at $29.95, now a no brainer. Before my mind could even engage, my right hand had grasped the bottle and I found myself clutching this tremendous bargain. By the way, the same store sells Zaphra - $40 - $50 elsewhere, also for $29.95. Zaphra is a loser - which I predicted and, sorry guys, hopefully due to our honest review.
But I digress. At a now affordable $29, a review was mandatory, and follows:
Sue Sea:
Me:Lately Jim and I have been engaged in two endeavors - taking a professional wine taster's course (my idea) and pursuing single malt whiskies (Jim's). But rum remains my preferred spirit, so I was extremely pleased when Jim brought home an especially lovely bottle, his latest find: Dos Maderos 5+3 Year Rum!
Presentation is always important to me, as is the whole setting. Low lights, quiet or soft music, a pitcher of cool water, perhaps some neutral crackers, and later a comparison rum(s) which tend to suggest themselves. Dos Maderos 5+3 Year Rum came in a truly lovely Old World bottle with a molded in sailing ship and "Dos Maderas". It is a handsome, heavy bottle with broadly rounded shoulders and the classic bulged neck, and features a subdued, small faux parchment label. Quietly stunning.
I must be honest - at the first pour and distant nosing I simply knew he'd picked a real winner. The aroma first struck me as molasses with pineapple, fig, raisins over a bit of vanillan. Later you might even find some nuts and caramel (but more in the palate).
The early palate was magnificent - honey on toast, over vanillas and the deeper fruits I from the aroma, which fruits then developed, followed by a growing leather to a moderate black pepper finish. There was no real aftertaste or "exhale" (2nd tasting) that I expect of great rums. For me, it is usually the aftertaste that keeps me coming back, makes me want more!
Still, the gentle opening, consistent and smooth development, harmony and smooth fade was intriguing - despite the lack of a good aftertaste I found I did want more. Dos Maderos 5+3 Year Rum is an offering that will keep discovering (for example the caramel and nuts). It is more complex than you may think. A very fine rum that I'd recommend everyone own as part of their basic reference collection. This is more than flirtation with sherry finishing; rather it is a true marriage of the benefits of both oak and Jerez sherry aging.
This is a rum that all will enjoy, both the experienced and especially, those who may be new to rum sipping. I see it as an extremely versatile rum that can be served before, during and after dinner. It would make a lovely gift to your host at a party.
A must buy.
First some background. A close examination of the gorgeous Dos Maderas bottle revealed the rum is produced in Spain from "Caribbean rum". It appears clear to me the rum is transferred to Spain for aging in - and here's the key: five years in Oak casks, then three years in expensive and hard-to-find Jerez sherry barrels.
But just a minute!
That was the front label. The back label states "Rum barrels and Jerez Sherry casks", just the opposite. No matter. This combination of 5+3 goes beyond simple sherry barrel finishing. First of all, Jerez sherry barrels (or casks if you prefer) are rarer, more expensive, hard-to-find and offer the unique character of Jerez. The color is a brilliant reddish amber with a fine green edge, medium legs. Nice.
It works.
My initial nosing of Dos Maderos 5+3 Year Rum revealed a wonderfully relaxing, smooth and broadly fruity aroma which I hesitated to dissect. No need really. Yes I could find light cherry, orange, apple, grapefruit and even some of Sue Sea's darker fruits. But it was the combination and effect that mattered. Heavenly and enticing. Believe me, you'll share my experience even at the pour, and I strongly urge you to nose high and slowly, then work your way in and enjoy the fullness of this special sweet aroma.
My early palate was completely consistent with a honeyed sweet fruit, moving into an emerging smooth and growing dark fruit, leather and late astringency, and punctuated with a sweet black pepper and leather. Unlike Sue Sea I was left with a brief wispy dark aftertaste of the deep fruit and pepper.
Altogether nice.
At this point my impressions were quite favorable, and I felt driven to pull out the only rum we own that references this unique style - Richard Seales Doorly XO (finished in sherry barrels). Unlike the Dos Maderos three years in Jerez, the XO's finishing is relatively brief. It shows. The fruit tones are more prominent in the Dos Maderas, compared to the somewhat more classic presentation of the XO with its increased leather. But both show the value of sherry barrel use. More distillers should take note, as this form of fine finishing achieves results that other distillers can only try to imitate - unsuccessfully - by "tweaking" their products with cheap unlabeled additives and adulterants.
As you will see Dos Maderos 5+3 Year Rum has received high ratings from the both of us. For only the shortness of its finish and aftertaste, it may have done even better. Dos Maderas is a must buy, at any price and deserves a permanent place on your short shelf of reference standards. Which raises the issue of style.
Dos Maderos 5+3 Year Rum exhibits Jamaican aromatics (but without dunder), Barbadian smoothness, Demeraran softness and - almost - a Cuban finish. After much debate and consideration - requiring finishing at least a third of this lovely rum - I've decided on the Barbadian category. Why?
Simple. I'm the fackin Capn!
Score (ten is best): 9.
*******
Note: I have only issue with the Dos Maderas: it doesn't pour properly. Now this has never been a problem as most bottles have either a plastic system or some kind of lip that allows a clean pour. The shape of the Maderas' rim is such that (a) you need to pour fast, or (b) suffer a bit of drippage down the side of the bottle.
And as a semi-retired reviewer, believe me I know ALL about drippage. Worse yet, I can't shake the bottle after, lol...
The solution: wrap a finger or napkin around the, uh, tip, to catch the drippage, hold it in the recovery position over the glass, or simply speed up a bit. This also works for pouring the Maderas...