Art of Blending/Aging vs Potemkin NDP's

[Capn Jimbo]

It's really no contest...


Bear brought up the notion of the "art of blending" and "finishing/aging" in defense of some of what he considered a few better ryes. I do agree, but only to the extent that it's apparently not that hard to be distinguished from the mass of NDP ryes (Non Distiller Producers). BTW, the use of the term "NDP" is actually pretty kind, as most of them work very hard to hide the fact that their juice is purchased in bulk. Instead they make up fanciful stories about history, classic recipes, artisan distilling in small batches, you name it.


Let's first consider real artistry and why it works...

John Glaser and Compass Box is the best example. Glaser has become an icon as a true artist and innovator with his creative blending, aging and finishing. He begins with a concept, a profile and presentation that intrigues him. His challenge? To then seek out the combination of scotch and grain whiskys, and cooperage that will achieve his target concept. In sum, he often works from the concept.

Fortunately he is very well known and respected and has access to often unavailable batches and barrels - literally thousands - from over a hundred different and experienced distillers. Most are produced with classic and proven copper pot stills, that have been producing single malts and other whiskys for decades. His palate of available whiskys is massive.

Having selected multiple whiskys (often four or more), he is absolutely fanatical about his cooperage which is made to his specifications and is very, very expensive. Often three or more different barrels are used in various combinations with the component whiskies. Through all of this he is constantly tweaking and creating the blend and profile of his dreams. This can take years and his artistry in blending and aging is undisputed.

In sum: huge palate of top quality pot-stilled whiskies, complex and expensive wood, years of development, and true artistry flowing from a concept.


Compare to the Potemkin (NDP) Ryes

Rye was out of favor for many years, and only recently became "the next BIG thing". Accordingly the palate of available ryes are meager. Unlike Scotch, there is relatively little diversity and very, very few long aged ryes. Most - by far - is made in large, column-based factory distilleries.

The largest of these is MGP, whose entire business is distilling and aging bulk spirits sold to NDP's. Their goal is to be the invisible supplier to the Potemkin pretenders. They produce just three ryes: a 95% and two 51% ryes. To put this in perspective, MGP spirit sales exceeded $300 million last year - and that's wholesale! Without really knowing, I'd have to guess that's probably close to a billion - yes a billion - dollars in Potemkin sales of made up "artisan" brands.

Clearly most of what is sold by literally hundreds of made up brands (over 60 for rye alone) is likely sourced from MGP. The demand is so great, and with a number of huge buyers like Diageo (for Bulleit and Dickel for example) that the NDP's are constantly competing for the little rye that's available, so the "blends" are simplistic and subject to change. Unlike Scotch's amazing variety of very different profiles, rye is relatively simplistic and uniform.

So rye is in fact, dealing from a limited palate. Now let's discuss the example of aging. Bear mentioned Angel's Envy (made from MGP bulk). He noted that AE tries to turn their sourced bulk into something that will justify their $88 list price, and cited their use of ex-rum, ex-sherry barrels to finish the rye "for up to 18 months". The truth is these are very tired, old, and multiple-use barrels. It's pretty well known that 3 fills is about the limit. Go much over that and there's very little wood effect left. Such old wood is good only for very old spirits, and that's because they won't affect the spirit much.

This is absolutely the opposite of Glaser whose cooperage is relative new, very expensive, customized and effective at adding the special tones only available from good wood, new enough to have something to give.

Back to Envy. These barrels originally served to make fine sherry by Ferrand, and were quite well used already. Then Ferrand extended their use once again by again using them - multiple times - to finish their Plantation XO rum. For all practical purposes these barrels seem awfully tired and used up. No distiller sells their best barrels, which they keep for themselves. Ergo we can guess that AE got quite a deal on these old barrels, and now uses them again to "finish" their rye.

But it's not clear for how long as their claim of finished in these barrels for "up to 18 months" means very little. "Up to" could mean 18 months, or 18 minutes. Even Plantation - whose marketing story is based on sherry barrel finishing - tells you nothing about the specific sourcing of their rum, and very little about the actual age or finishing of most of their products.

Now these barrels finally, finally arrive at Envy where that very used wood now has been used - in order - for sherry, then rum and now rye. Real finishing is generally done in much younger wood for two reasons: you need newer wood which will interact aggressively - and - in the short time alloted to finishing.

What AE calls "finishing" is rather different. The wood by now is quite used, and really cannot be expected have much wood effect. While it is possible to disassemble, shave and rechar the old wood, this would tend to defeat AE's marketing story which promotes the sherry/rum history. Do they? They aren't telling, but if not what you'd expect is not really wood interactions, but rather the oxidized remnants of the former contents. Does this account for Bear's dislike of the profile?

Not very impressive. It would have been better to cite Prichard, who actually does a good secondary aging of their Double Barreled Bourbon in his now famous small, newish charred barrels.

So there you have it: a very limited palate of relatively uniform factory product, mostly provided by MGP with limited or simplistic blending. Most do not finish the product and the one citation for AE's sherry/rum "finish" was less than convincing. Let's not kid ourselves. When MGP's bulk products represent perhaps a billion dollars of NDP Potemkin branded spirits including rye, Houston we have a problem. Thus insofar as rye and bourbon we all have to be especially alert, read those labels and research them carefully. I daresay the differences are not as great as the premium prices and softball reviews would have you believe.

And I thought rogue rum had a problem...




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http://recenteats.blogspot.com/p/the-co ... iskey.html

[bearmark]

First of all, this is all great information! I just want to add a bit about Angel's Envy....

Their rye is very good, but not a style that I prefer. It makes for a unique Manhattan or Old Fashioned (drinks that showcase the whiskey) and it would be great to have around for variety. The problem is the price! It's not even worth the $58 that I can get it for here (most places sell it for about $70), but I may get a bottle at some point because it really is good and unique. It's my buddy's favorite rye and he likes good stuff.

Secondly, is their openness. I've met and visited with Wes Henderson (Lincoln's son) and he's very open about what they do. For instance, he'll tell you that they finish the rye for very close to 18 months and he'll even tell you the story of getting the rum barrels. Unfortunately, they're marketing is too hyped towards deception, rather than being as openly honest as their founder's son (and his father before him).

Right now, this is all working well for them. I still don't like it and would rather an open approach that would still showcase their product well. Both of their products are good and unique, but they're overpriced. Their limited edition Cask Strength Bourbon is way overpriced and is clearly meant to appeal more to collectors (e.g. beautifully stained wood box with certificate, etc.)... but it's very good. Even so, they've garnered some amazing awards (Wine Enthusiast, Smoky Beast, etc.) and sold a ton of whiskey.

I'm not really trying to defend them, but their story really does highlight the fact that even finishing in well used barrels can create a very unique product (I'll see if I can get you a sample, Cap'n).

Edit: I was off on my initial prices by $10 (as in too high).

[bearmark]

If you really want to taste some masterful blending work, then check out High West Campfire.

Sweet: A straight bourbon whiskey from 75 percent corn, 21 percent rye, and 4 percent barley malt. (Source: from the old Seagrams plant, then called LDI now MGP)

Spicy and floral: A straight rye whiskey from 95 percent rye and 5 percent barley malt. (Source: from the old Seagrams plant, then called LDI now MGP)

Smoky: A blended malt Scotch whiskey, made of 100-percent barley malt that has been peated. (Source: We can't say, but we can say it is not from Islay!)

Age of the whiskies: all are 5 years or older.

Proportions of the component whiskies? Top secret!

This is a really unique and flavorful blend for those who like bourbon or rye whiskey and also enjoy peated scotch whisky. It's $54 here (expect prices around $60 in most places), but there's nothing else like it out there. When you've got something good and unique, you can demand a premium.

[Capn Jimbo]

Verrrrrry interesting...


It's nice to see at least one NDP being open and transparent to their best ability (High West). Where I think most of our crew are capable of creating their own blends, something Ralfy greatly recommends as by doing so (a) you can create your own unique blend and (b) your understanding and appreciation of spirits will greatly improve.

A thread has been started for all of our blending experiments:
http://rumproject.com/rumforum//viewtopic.php?p=5145




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Ralfy's D.I.Y. Blending Whiskies:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a9CKShEI6F8

Ralfy's Blend-your-own Whisky:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FabGicBG3OE