What is about John Glaser of Compass Box? This gentleman - for good reason - has become a true icon, indeed one of the best blenders in the world. Why? In the view of many because of a number of factors - long experience in the industry, close and respected relationships with the distillers, a magical and creative palate, blending skills nearly without equal, masterful skills with wood, et al. All these serve his goals of something even more unique - the ability to imagine a profile - and thence to use his skills to bring his imagined profile to fruition.
Thus, its fair to say that if it's made by Glaser you can't go wrong. His releases are not trial balloons, they are accomplished dreams. Of course you are free to disagree.
Sue Sea:
Moi::"I didn't begin with any interest in whiskey per se, as my interests were definitely in rum. But over the years, more and more whiskys, gins, cognacs, bourbons and others spirits have crept into our experience. I'm sure many of you have had a similar experience. These days I have come to appreciate any really fine and well made spirit and of these I have come to really appreciate John Glaser's releases. Because these can be hard to come by economically, we treasure our finds. This Oak Cross has been around for quite awhile, I've tasted it before but honestly that was long ago. Jim brought it out tonight, and we decided it was time to taste and finally try to review it.
Oak Cross comes in one of Glaser's lovely tall and elegant bottles. Slightly tapered, tall, nice thick bottom, and with one of his typical understated and quiet labels topped by a gold-leafed middle age "cross". It tells you that the contents are special and good, and they are. It's been awhile that I've reviewed a whisky. The Oak Cross nose feature vanillan, ginger, clove to produce what I'd call a nice spice warm apple pie fresh baked and out of my overn. I can almost imagine some cool French vanilla ice cream on top and melting over the slice. The early palate is creamy and buttery and entirely consistent, and like my first bite of that warm and spicy pie. The spices are inherent throughout to provide a nice integrated balance of heat and sweetness. All moves smoothly to nice clove finish that's warm bordering on hot.
Oak Cross' malt scotch whisky is consistent throughout, what I'd call level (in a good way) and is lovely from beginning to end, integrated, consistent, balanced and rounded to perfection. Oddly, if Jim had told me this was a very fine rum, except for some malty tones I'd have believed him. This is yet another example of how very fine and well-made spirits, with age, begin to approach one another."
I'd forgotten just how brilliant, truly an artist, that the man named John Glaser really is. He is no Chip Tate, full of both-sides youthful bluster, but is the real deal. He has taken a spirit with hundreds of years of tradition and expressed it in an evolutionay and creative way that is well within the genre. Oak Cross opened with spices - actually quite spicy over a background of vanillan, warm grainy medium fruits, and a bit of leathery tar - all seamless and balanced. The early palate presented with a rush of light sweetness and gentle spices, leading to an emerging light leather astringency which smoothly transitions to a well integrated hot ginger and sweet grainy finish. Do understand though the notion of sweet has been expressed, there's a balance of leather astringency and dryness. This is what a great whisky is all about.
Oak Cross is so beautifully balanced - smooth as silk - from beginning to end. Sue Sea's reminiscence of a bite of warm spiced apple pie with the French vanilla ice cream melting down in your mouth in throat really does work. In sum: more and more I am convinced that John Glaser - almost alone - has demonstrated that the new great achievements will not be in the form of endless new brands by distillers, but truly new and skilled independent bottling, blending and finishing by a few rare and talented blender/finsihers/bottlers (and I DON'T mean Plantation).
Score (ten is best): solid, solid 8.
