In the world of rogue rum we've run across a few pure but exceptionally deliciously balanced rums that are so, so good that they are literally dangerous. Way too easy to drink, and the kind that you'd better have a designated pourer/driver. On the same token there's been thankfully few that were so incredibly bad that even finishing the tasting was a task.
You might wonder at which extreme the Glenfarclas 12 was found. Read on...
Now the godz only know why I decided to purchase the Glenfarclas in the first place but certainly Ralfy and the Malt Maniacs had plenty to do with it. At first glance the Glenfarclas had much to offer: one of the few remaining independent distilleries still in business, run by the J. G. Grant family over six generations. Using old and venerable copper pot stills, still heated over open flame (requiring exceptional care to prevent burning). Aging in the old, original earthen floored stone warehouses, in good used American (bourbon) and sherry casks. In sum, a classic single malt produced in the classic fashion and mostly untouched by mass, modern techniques and degradation.
An automatic purchase for us, despite the fact that I'd decided we owned too many spirits already. But let's not leave you in the dark much longer...
Sue Sea:
Me: I won't waste your time reviewing how this purchase came to be, but as always I remain fully skeptical of any spirit until we actually part with our hard-earned cash and taste it. There is nothing like having skin in the game to allow an unbiased and honest analysis. Freebies work, so we don't accept them. If a spirit is crap, we can say so and not risk losing a benefactor.Some of you may know that I'm not really a whisky fan, although I have great admiration for the honesty and purity of single malts. And to be fair, I've found great favor with a few whiskies, including those of John Glaser, Laphroig and the Pappy Van Winkle family. There are others.
Please know that I work very hard to respect the distiller, and you, the ultimate purchaser and speak to the quality of the spirit rather than to my own private preferences.
Through Jim, I've come to appreciate the true and real provenance of deserving spirits, so I was pleased to learn of the Grant's Glenfarclas. The Glenfarclas presentation befits its roots. This whisky is sold in a lovely, bright royal blue tube container, featuring a subdued, square, gold-trimmed ivory label, with "Glenfarclas 12" in an angle, embossed and raised red script. Absolutely classic and reassuring, really perfect in my view, untouched by a modern, mass marketing department. The bottle is the same - classic, simple and solid.
It's whats in the bottle that counts.
The Glenfarclas 12's opening nose was of leather, apricot and deep orange citrus. The deep fruit also includes prune or raisin, and hints of licorice, overripe banana, ginger, cacao, cinnamon and malt. Later I picked up the smoke of an extinguished fire, and even a bit of vanillan and caramel.
The palate was rich and lovely, opening consistently and smoothly. Think of a chocolate covered malt dissolving in your mouth. The aforementioned spiced then emerge - the cinnamon, ginger and clove and move to a beautifully warming, hot yet sweet, take-your-clothes-off finish, almost like a chili pepper, but rich and lasting.
One word will suffice - decadent - so of course the Glenfarclas 12 will go well with desert or a cigar (which we then lit), but this whisky would do well also both before and after dinner.
Glenfarclas 12 is simply brilliant and an example of what classic and artistic whiskymaking is all about. I must warn you! This whisky is really dangerous, incredibly pleasant, delicious and easy to drink. Both Dave Broom and Michael Jackson call it big and powerful. Is it ever!
Oh, and I should mention, at $35 it makes a great gift, and a whisky that you won't feel guilty about pouring.
I had no idea what to really expect with this whisky, short of its history as an independent, old line distiller. I can honestly say I was flabbergasted. Glenfarclas 12 presents as a clear bronze, with the distinct green edge of honest aging in both bourbon and sherry barrels. It possesses a very smooth, very full and comfortable body. "I'm whisky!" it shouts from the very get go. The dram opened with rich fruit, chocolate, cinammon and spices. Think chocolate covered cherries. Deep dried fruits, deep, deep and with a nice tar. Rich and simply lovely.
The palate is entirely consistent - a leather and a touch of astringency peeks out, to be then smoothly supplanted by a clove and black peppery sweet heat and a chest finish. Smashing! We start our tastings with roughly half an ounce of spirits in our small apple shaped tasting glasses, and then perhaps add a splash later as needed.
In this case we added and added and added as the dangerousness of this amazing dram became apparent. And as we all should do, we were then reminded of reference spirits. In this case Sue Sea finally observed "This reminds me of Ron Matusalem Gran Reserva." Specifically she noted what we'd call a Cuban hot finish, and the Reserva's cacao.
Naturally I poured a Gran Reserva 18, and darn if she wasn't right. The similarities were amazing, with the Reserva showing more vanillan and caramel, against the Glenfarclas' malt base. A great comparison. I then broke out a dram of John Glazer's Spice Tree, a studious blend which we'd earlier considered in a similar vein (spicy heat), to discover that it couldn't keep up with Glenfarclas' bigness.
One final note: The sweet heat of the Glenfarclas was perceived more as chili heat by Sue Sue (over sweetness) and sweetness (over heat) by me. This reflects a lovely balance of a big and beautifully rounded spirit.
Bravo!
Bottom line...
Glenfarclas 12 is a terrific buy. I well represents its Speyside origin, and I can't imagine a better example of classic artistry using absolutely traditional methods. To achieve such a result without the use of additives and flavorings is simply amazing, not to mention its low, low purchase price of $35. Can you hear me now?
A best buy, a must buy for both the experienced and new whisky drinkers. Don't wait - buy this whisky as soon as possible. Right now! Don't fuck with me...
