Quartet of Treats: Benedictine, Drambuie, Orangerie and Monk

Great tasters note that one way to better your understanding of a spirit is to try others. We've already tried calvados, cognac, armangnac, tequila, whisky and gin. Here's some of the more unusual spirits and drinks. Mead me halfway on this, woncha?
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Capn Jimbo
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Quartet of Treats: Benedictine, Drambuie, Orangerie and Monk

Post by Capn Jimbo »

A true flight of fancy...


Over the past few weeks artificial and "natural flavoring" reared its unreal head. Add to that a couple research visits to Total and ABC to read and to try to understand labels on the concoctions used for mixing. Our heads were spinning in disbelief, if not outright disgust at the dominence of liqueuers and mixers that really have very little to do with reality.

Apparently the notion of using real fruits and flavors is becoming a lost art, except for the rise of high priced "mixologists" and their $20 drinks and/or a few dedicated homeboys and girls who are willing to go to the trouble. If you think the idea of "rum" is abused, welcome to the world of "Triple Sec" or "Blue Curacao".


It wasn't always this way...

Some of the most famous of flavorins, aperitif and digestifs' recipes were secret, but for good reason. These use real components in recipes that includes long lists of what we now consider exotic and hard to find spices and botanicals. These were largely used for true medicinal and other purposes other than being cool and getting laid on Meat Market Hump Days. Some of these fine libations have been around for hundreds of years - their makers wouldn't even dream of replacing that history or recipe with any modern flavorist's failed imitations.

In this thread, Sue Sea and I decided to try some of the best known. Our selection was based on personal history and pure whim. Many years ago I tended bar and used to keep a snifter of Courvoisier at hand (Mafia bars allowed this, particularly as the bartender sipping seemed to sell more drinks), plus an occasional nip of B&B. For Sue Sea it was the memory of her father and his cordial glass of Drambuie after dinner. So off I went to buy a couple 375's of Benedictine and of Drambuie. As often happens a tasting suggests other spirits and this one was no exception, with John Glaser's Orangerie and of all things, Old Monk 7 Years. But as you will see for good reason.

Stay tuned...
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Post by Capn Jimbo »

And away we go...


Benedictine


The actual name on what is one of the most familiar bottles of our times is "D.O.M. 1510 Benedictine Liqueur" - product of France, 80 proof. The "D.O.M." stands for "Deo Optimo Maximo" ("To God, most good, most great"). The abbreviation is common to the order. Unlike so many of the rums that have to make up stories (think Panama Red), Benedictine - like Mount Gay or Appletons - actually has one and it is very, very old. When it comes to an authentic history, I'm all ears as Sue Sea and I adore true tradition and art. Per the distiller...
"The incredible story of Bénédictine® began in 1510 in the Abbey of Fécamp, in Normandy, France, when the Benedictine monk, Dom Bernardo Vincelli, created a secret elixir that was to become famous for years to come. Three hundred and fifty years later, in 1863, Alexandre Le Grand, a merchant and collector of religious art, discovered the lost recipe for this elixir in his collection. Intrigued by the discovery and after many attempts, he successfully recreated the mysterious liqueur that he called Bénédictine®.

Distilled and aged in a flamboyant palace, built in Fécamp in tribute to this unique liqueur, Bénédictine® is a subtle alchemy of 27 different plants and spices."
It is said that this is the oldest, continuously made liqueur in the world. Is it? I'm not arguing.

Their process is alleged to be 2 years, using 27 spices and botanicals. These are infused into neutral alcohol, then either distilled or double distilled "depending on the ingredient" in classic hammered copper alembics. These end up in four different "Esprits", which are aged separately in oak for about 3 month , then merged and aged for another 8 months. Honey and saffron are added to the final blend which is then heated twice (to 55 degrees C.), then aged for another 4 months. Total - about two years in the making.


The reviews...

Sue Sea:
I have never been a big fan of liqueurs, most due to what I then perceived as being too syrupy sweet. Still when Jim gets into something, he gets into it so it's inevitable that we'll do a tasting. And to be honest, I've learned to keep an open mind. As always, I simply have to start with the bottle, which I'm sure you'll recognize. It is classic, very old, and simply screams quiet sophistication. I'm sure you'll agree.

The Benedictine presents as a clear thick amber with a sheen of very light green. The aroma was very interesting from the beginning, both familiar and strange at the same time. When a spirit contains 27 spices and botanicals there is simply no value in trying to tear it apart, as carrying a dissection to extremes does not any such spirit justice. The best any of us can do is to give general impressions. Please trust that my description will fail, but here's my best:

Have you ever cooked with Chinese five-spice? If you have, you'll be reminded of this wonderful and savory combination of spices. I was also reminded of the aromatic frangipan flowering trees and their soft rich perfume when in bloom. Add to this a sense of floral, medium but overripe citrus and a multitude of spices and, well, I've failed. But the nose was simply delicious.

The palate opens with early heat, including cinnamon, with a rich honey. Think hot buttered cinnamon toast. The honey and spices continue to develop including all the above including clove and ginger, root (beer), hard candy and leading to a lip licking, sweet hot and lingering finish. You'll be tempted to lick your lips.

In sum this is an old world product and delivers a unique old world taste and experience. The Benedictine was superb - sophisticated and rich in every regard. It tastes expensive and worth whatever you pay for it. It is full bodied and full flavored and is like a candied, decadent rich baked good like a rich Greek honey nut desert, a baklava. I'd be sure to serve it neat and only in my finest small glass designed for such a cordial, after dinner or with dessert, or on its own, as the dessert.
Simply lovely.

Me: It must have been close to forty years ago that I first - and last - had a B&B, and somehow I never quite forgot it. Buying the Benedictine (without the brandy of B&B) was intended to focus the review. The opening nose was a combination of multi-spice and a rich orange blossom honey. Please know the the Benedictine is completely harmonious, beautifully balanced and flows smoothly from beginning to end. It's richness and lasting aftertaste work to lengthen the experience, which requires only micro-dramming to appreciate. That's the beauty of such creations. As far as the palate is concerned I will only add to Sue Seas and mention a medicinal candied effect, all leading to a lip licking sweet honey balanced perfectly by an emerging white pepper dusting, both of which persist in Adam and Eve fashion.

It seems that honey is a part of these rare and historical creations of the healing alchemists and monks. I have a Greek heritage of which honey plays an important part. Honey was and remains a lasting remedy for sore throats and for comfort, and there is scientific confirmation of its value. There is simply no comparison with the current adulturation with ordinary sugar, glycerol and/or sweeteners. Such bullshit sweetening is cheap and offputting and designed to cause you drink more, like a sweet soda. Honey is meant to heal, to slow you down, to savor in small amounts and to encourage contemplation.

Honey is the poster ingredient for real and for value. But I digress. Let me interrupt at this point to note that Sue Sea has a remarkable memory for aromas and tastes. At a point, she stopped her tasting to remark "This reminds me of Old Monk and its Indian spices". "Are you serious?" I replied, "We'll have to check that out...". Which we did.

Stay tuned...
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Post by Capn Jimbo »

Scot's pride...


Drambuie

Next up in the flight was Drambuie from Scotland. It's no secret that most of us appreciate the relatively fine, pure and noble spirits from these lands. The notion of a liqueur made with good Scotch whisky is all it took for Drambuie to join the flight. It didn't hurt that Drambuie was a nightly uh, nightcap for Sue Sea's dear departed father.

Drambuie is yet another of the original classic liqueurs. Per their website it is circa 1745 and the recipe "...Herbs, spices and Scottish heather honey... a blend of grain and a selection of the finest Speyside and Highland malt whiskies". They claim parts of the blend are 15 years old, and offer a drier version that is all 15 years or older (Drambuie 15). For those who care about the regions, it is produced on the Isle of Skye.

Like Benedictine, Drambuie comes dear but you get exactly what you pay for - top quality and real ingredients. Honestly, when you pay just eight or ten dollars for the cheap shit, do you honestly expect the same? Of course not and with that corporate handslap, we commence...

Sue Sea:
"To begin as always let's consider the bottle and presentation. I remember still my father's nightcap and his classic bottle of Drambuie. As memorable and lovely as the Benedictine was and remains, Drambuie's new bottle is just the opposite. It's simply terrible, and looks more like a squat, wide mouthed bottle of beer. The designer made a failed attempt to sculpt the bottle, and for some reason topped it with a plastic screw off cap. I haven't a clue as to who or why would do such a thing.

Fortunately, it's what's inside that counts but this is despite the presentation. The Drambuie's presents a lovely wispy honey-lemon furniture polish, like a hot today using the same ingredients. The front palate is like a spoonful of lemon honey, thick and a lip licker and warming up to a glowing white pepper and ginger finish. Some might say that Drambuie is not terribly complex, but this effect is the result of great complexity coming from multiple and often unfamiliar spices and herbs. Such complexity suggests the familiar but doesn't quite ring true to it as something, actually many things, are just, well, different. I hope you understand.

I found Drambuie absolutely delicious. Think of a lemon pudding or cheesecake being pleasant, coating and lasting. Do you have a sore throat? Pour a dram. There is a Greek custard dessert called galatabouriko, or a lemon meringue pie (but deeper and sweeter). And again the impression of simplicity.

This is surely a special occasion treat that personally I'd not mix, although many people do. It's honey forward thickness encourages patience, and properly demands your time. It's worth it."
Me: A dram of Drambuie (sorry, couldn't resist) presents as a bright, thick yellow with a definite green edge (compared to Benedictine's bare sheen). This is only proper based on good Scotch grain and malts, which are rarely colored. While Benedictine presented as heavier, deeper and into the oranges, the Drambuie moved up into the lighter lemon ranges although I can assure you, they didn't spare the heather honey.

First nose was as Sue Sea's lemon furniture polish, over a tapestry of blended spices and herbs, and yes a light, light background of good grain and malt. It is without question a malt whisky lovers' liqueur. The palate - like all spirits that use multiple spices and herbs, is difficult to pin down but really now, why bother. The effect of this is that like Benedictine, Drambuie has its own unique identity that you either love, like, or not. Although you can't escape the residual honey on your lips (a good excuse to kiss your partner), it is lighter in the mouth. Wisps of floral, light lemony fruits, warm spices and the heather honey and carried by good grain and malt. Such a blend leads to that medicinal and candied effect as mentioned with Benedictine. Can it get any better? The finish is really quite unique: with a very light white pepper that creeps up on you in your mouth and throat, while a sticky honey becomes present on your lips in conjunction with a reflection of all the aromas and tastes that preceeded this persistent ending.

This is perfect microdrammer for after dinner or as a nightcap. It won't take much, and you can enjoy it for quite some time. Perfect...
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Post by da'rum »

Nice Jimbo, I also have fond memories of Benedictine and Drambuie. A nice write up. I think I may by a bottle of each soon as I haven't done in a long time.
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Post by Uisge »

A little historical connection of person and place, the former being Charles Edward Stuart aka Bonnie Prince Charlie, and the place being Broadford, Isle of Skye, The Broadford Hotel, which lays claim to being the "home" of Drambuie the brand as we know it.

Courtesy of undiscoveredscotland.co.uk comes this lagniappe, "Everywhere ought to have some historical claim to fame, and Broadford is no exception. During the flight of Bonnie Prince Charlie in 1746, he was helped by a Captain John MacKinnon. In return, the Prince gave MacKinnon the recipe of his personal liqueur. After being made by the MacKinnons on Skye for their personal consumption for over a century, the drink went public in the Broadford Inn (now the Broadford Hotel) in the 1870s, and the name Drambuie was registered as a trademark in 1893."

I've been to Broadford, and stayed at The Dunollie Hotel probably a stone's throw from The Broadford Hotel.

As for the Drambuie, I got a half empty half-bottle a couple of years ago from a friend, and I agree with all the descriptors listed by Cap'n and Sue Sea, and maybe a little liquorice too, but it's not for me. The honey is too much for my taste, kinda like baklava :?
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Post by Capn Jimbo »

And the beat goes on...


Thanks for the comments. Experiencing classics that have survived literally hundreds of years is meaningful. That they were developed with the notion of spirits as healing is meaningful. They were and remain works of art that are every bit as valuable as any other. Compare to today's Batshit Dingleberrys which are created one after another as the drinking public has been made to expect, appreciate and buy any load of crap created by their butt sucking flavorist.

But all is not yet lost. Often when we do tastings, comparisons arise which then suggest other spirits to join the flight. In this case, when tasting the Benedictine, Sue Sea noted that it reminded her of Old Monk XXX. When tasting the Scot's Drambuie, it was impossible for me not to think of Scotsman John Glaser and his Orangerie. Next up...


John Glaser's Orangerie

As labeled Glaser's Orangerie's front label is subtitled "Scotch Whisky infused with Orange Zest, Cassia and Clove. And all are absolutely real - no "artificial" "natural" or "natural orange" flavors. No bullshit, and that fact is so appreciated that John get a deserved free plug:
Glaser: "Orangerie is made from smooth, sweet Scotch whisky infused with the hand-zested peel of Navalino oranges and subtle accents of Indonesia cassia bark and Sri Lankan cloves.

To make Orangerie we begin with great whisky. We use a soft, sweet blend of Highland single malt and single grain whisky from Fife. Secondly, we use only the freshest, highest quality oranges and top class aromatic spices. Importantly, we zest the fruit by hand and use only fresh zest in our infusion. Only the hand-zested peel of really fresh Navalino oranges gives you the lively, vibrant flavours that are the hallmark of Orangerie."
Read John's description and read it twice. Hand zested peel of fresh Navalino oranges? I believe him - it's the kind of man he is. And creative enough to make an honestly infused spirit made from a good single malt and supportive grain whisky. Basta! The reviews...

Sue Sea
:
I must be honest. Having experienced not a few of John Glaser's creations I have come to expect brilliance from him and Orangerie didn't disappoint. As always, the presentation satisfies, this time in a tall and sophisticated dark glass, slightly tapered bottle, with an extremely artistic, clear gold-leafed label.

Orangerie presented not with rind but with a notable clean orange zest, over a light lemon furniture polish, that has a pleasant, slightly bitter edge reminiscent of orange bitters. There is a also a sense of warm corn bread, a sweet lemon and I have to say it - an orange creamsicle! Lovely.

The early palate carried forward with a whipped lemon meringue, whipped and whispy, springlike, cool, light and refreshing. Then the Orangerie moved back into the orange range, with the sense of a fresh cut orange much like biting into a fresh (but not overripe) orange and peeling off the rind for a squirt of cool fresh orange. Actually it wasn't the rind, and not the orange, but more like the fruit next to the rind with senses of both. Whew!

I'd also add a touch of canteloupe, dried apricot and a hint of a sweet nut like a cashew. The late palate and finish was a solid clove, ginger and cinnamon.

In sum, I found Glaser's Orangerie quietly sophisticated, wispy and springlike, entirely pleasant. Unlike the Drambuie, Orangerie seems much more versatile and I can see it enjoyed as an appetizer, with Asian and seafood, or after dinner for almost anyone, even those who are not whisky lovers, but certainly for whisky lovers as well.
Moi: Cheers to Sue Sea who honestly, has an exceptional palate. Over the years Glaser has managed to carry the art of blending to new and modern heights. That he would at some point create an "Orangerie" was inevitable. Orangerie presents a slightly hazy sunny gold, as expected for this authentic and real creation. The nose opened with a high orange over a distant background of grain in a lovely balance, and a light vanillan. First tongue (lol) is notable for its lightness, a sense of sweet nuttiness, lightly sweet grain with overtones of the orange zest. Glaser's spices remain in hiding until the late palate when they appear with a notable balancing white pepper and clove finish - not too long, not too short but distinctive for a terrific punctuation to the experience. You are left with a very light lingering sweetness that yup, encourages another sip.

It's fair to consider the notion of flavoring as anathema to lovers of single malts, which is exactly why the catagory almost doesn't exist. Which is why and how John Glaser's creativity and competence in producing Orangerie is even more commendable.



One final note: we made the grievous error of tasting the Orangerie after the honey forward Benedictine and Drambuie. These are such heavy rich liqueurs that the first tastes of the Orangerie were made to appear dry and almost bitter. As evident, this comparison is hardly accurate as noted above. We had to wait and repeatedly clear our palates.
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