Capn Jimbo's Rum Project Forum

[Capn Jimbo]

Jamaican Style: Pungent, Aromatic and Delicious!

It may be argued that Barbados was the de facto home of rum (yes, yes I know about the Portuguese in Brazil). Jamaica was a close second but certainly worthy of high admiration, for the Jamaican style is hard to beat.

Rum came to Barbados first for a number of good reasons: proximity to England, great terrain, soil and water, slaves and the presence of distillation knowledgable indentured servants from Scotland, Ireland and the Celtic British islands nearby. And like many "firsts" the early product was hearty, but "oh my" crude. Pity the hangovers, and no wonder it was called "kill-devil".

Jamaica was second to the scene but their product represented a quantum leap forward.

Originally this Spanish ruled island grew cane almost exclusively for sugar, with any leftover fermented molasses being given to the slaves for nutrition. Things changed when Vice Admiral William Penn threatened the island. The Spanish quickly exited but not before freeing the slaves - now called "Maroons" - to continue guerrilla warfare against the British. Later Captain Morgan made the infamous Port Royal his headquarters. The newly arrived Brits and some of the freed Celtic distillers, once established, once again took up distilling to produce what by now was a rapidly growing trade in rum.

But with a twist.

As humans are wont to do - particularly later arrivals - they wished to make a superior product. First of all they instituted double distillation for both higher proof and quality, a practice quickly copied by Barbadian distillers. Second, and just as important, they did so by experimenting with much longer fermentation, and by the use of yet another "leftover" product of same:

Dunder.

Dunder refers to the leftover spent "lees" left in the still after distillation is complete. These leftovers were transferred to "dunder (or mock) pits" to accumulate. A portion of this dunder was transferred as a sort of starter to new fermentations. The high acidic nature of the dunder and its components led to ever increasing numbers of new and aromatic esters. This was revolutionary!

Soon, Jamaican rums' superiority was recognized and commanded top dollar. Hogsheads of Jamaican rums were served at important government functions in both the British Isles and the United States, including the Inaugerations of our presidents.

Dunder produced rums were such a part of Jamaican rums that even today rums are classified as to their ester content: Common Cleans (80-150 esters, light and floral), Plummers (150-200 esters, light and fruity), Wedderburns (200+, deep fruity, heavy bodied and pungent) and last Continental Flavored/High Ester (50-1700 esters, by far the most pungent, acetones). Where a Plummer might be fermented for 2 days, a Continental might take 5-10 days, or more!

The Common Clean, light ester rums are really quite modern (1950's) and are produced using continous column distillation. Most Jamaican rums are blends relying on the Plummer/Wedderburn categories for their flavor components.

Export sales are also classified in three categories: Local Trade Quality, Export Trade Quality (usually Continentals destined for Germany, mostly as the flavor component of rum based blends), Home Quality (Plummers and Wedderburns for the US/UK - think Smith & Cross).

So much for esters.

Jamaica, like Barbados also has a rich history and tradition in rum making. In 1825 John Wray opened a tavern named the "Shakespeare Tavern" in Kingston (still owned by the family). By 1860 he hired his nephew, James Ward (no relation to the Wards of Barbados). And the company remains to this day...

J. Wray & Nephew.

Despite his absence from the company name, on Wray's death, Ward took over and greatly expanded the company's rum business, and soon won award at all the world exhibitions of the time: London, Paris, Amsterdam, Rome and Jamaica. On Ward's death the Lindo Brothers bought the company and also acquired the Appleton Estate.

Rum is dominated in Jamaica by one powerful and stubborn company.

Unlike so many other distillers and bullshit conglomerates, J. Wray & Nephew/Appleton has remained stubbornly true to their methods and products. JW&N Overproof is a staple in literally every Jamaican home. The Appleton products are, in general, world class.


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Note: The Jamaican style is easily recognizable by what only an idiot like me would call, yup, a "dunder aroma". To learn this aroma for yourself simply buy a nice Pussers Blue Label and nose carefully. You'll quickly notice a pungent, almost rancid tone. That's it!

You'll pick this up in any good Jamaican style, like Jack Tar, Smith & Cross and Sea Wynde. Other rums included in this style are those that are especially pungent and aromatic.
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[da'rum]

Great information, what interested me especially was the classifications and times of ferment.

Great stuff, thanks Jimbo.
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in goes your eye out

[jankdc]

Appleton and Wray & Nephew was bought by Gruppo Campari in December 2012. Let's see hope they don't screw things up.