Review: Old Grand Dad Bourbon (80 proof)

What is feckin whiskey doing on the net's leading independent rum website? There's a reason, read on, but it's not my fault! Honest...
Post Reply

How do you score Old Grand Dad Bourbon 80 (five is best)?

5
0
No votes
4
1
100%
3
0
No votes
2
0
No votes
1
0
No votes
 
Total votes: 1

User avatar
Capn Jimbo
Rum Evangelisti and Compleat Idiot
Posts: 3550
Joined: Mon Dec 11, 2006 3:53 pm
Location: Paradise: Fort Lauderdale of course...
Contact:

Review: Old Grand Dad Bourbon (80 proof)

Post by Capn Jimbo »

Old Grand Dad Bourbon (80 proof) - my kind of balanced bourbon...


If history matters Old Grand Dad is a true bit of Americana, stemming from the mid-1800's and founded by family Hayden, namely Basil Hayden, Sr. whose name is dropped to this day. It has always been a big seller so its no surprise that OGD as it's drinkers refer to it now, went through a series of owners including Fortune Brands, to Beam and currently Beam Suntory (for at least the next 15 minutes).

BS as I'll call it sells what they call the "Olds" - OGD, Old Crow and Old Overholt. All are straight whiskies delivered in truly old tyme classic rectangular bottles with oldie labels, refreshing. Remember Mount Gay's 200 years of labels? Same idea and a good one. Traditions are hard won, easily lost.

Despite the BS ownership (and a recipe change for the Crow), and even though all are sold at amazingly low prices - my playground - all are very well regarded short of the usual premium priced snobs. Old Overholt is a lovely drinkable, 3 year straight rye at 40% and was positively reviewed by not only Dave Broom but also the revered and trustworthy Michael Jackson, bless his dear soul. Sue Sea and I love rye, and enjoyed it (review to follow). Old Crow is also a 3 year (with a 4 year "Reserve") that uses the Beam bourbon mash. Despite a huge price bias against this very low priced bourbon, it still has a remarkable number of followers

But of the three OGD still gets the most attention, and I'm beginning to believe it shoud. Available at 114, a BIB 100, and until recently an 86 proof (now at 80 proof), it differs from most other bourbons based on historical, high rye recipe. Wherein most bourbons seem to be in 70+ corn, maybe 13% rye, OGD is reputed to be around 60+ corn, and close to 30% rye.

Those of you who played around mixing Bulleit 95% rye with Mellow Corn 90% corn quickly found out that it takes very little spicy rye to make a notable impact on the blend. Recall too Ralfy's suggestion to add a very small amount of a good smokey Islay to say a good rum, for a wonderful new experience. We've done both.

For moi anyway, the OGD high-rye 80 proof ran my bells - for Sue Sea, not so much (to be explained). The reviews:


Sue Sea:
"Old Grand Dad's bottle could not possibly be more classic. Although it's named after the real grandpa Hayden who founded the company, it could just as well have been named after our own grand dads and parents for whom this bourbon was a staple. I should say I really do love bourbon, as my family was well involved with American horse racing, need I say more.

I love corn forward, oily and sweet bourbons that are akin to candy in a glass. When I cook, there's nothing like buying some nice fresh corn on the cob, husk and all. I rip of the husks, rinse the corn cob, then slice off the raw kernels which can be used in any number of ways. Just like fresh blended carrots, fresh raw corn kernals have an amazing and wonderful sweetness, which is perfectly discernible in the bourbons I like.

This high rye Old Grand Dad wasn't one of them. Althouth I enjoy Old Overholt straight rye, and a good straight bourbon, the OGD seems to be neither. Obviously it qualifies as a bourbon, but a low corn one, while OGD's increased rye is surely apparent (we did the Bulleit/Mellow Corn experiment). The result seems neither a bourbon or rye as I think of them (and I love both).

I have to be honest and disqualify myself a bit, as for some reason the Old Grand Dad reminded me of a particularly bad experience I once had in my playful youth that involved a bottle of Canadian Crown Royal. It is a given that we all have young experiences that color our memories, and for whatever reason this one did.

Still I kept at it, as I'm fully committed to putting aside my own prejudices and working as hard as I can to respect and report all spirits fairly. The OGD opened for me with a nose of cherry tones, leathery and with wisps of background vanillan. The palate opened oily and heavy bodied, robust, with spicy heat of clove and ginger - heat that persisted and grew to the very end, with the spice moving into the white pepper range. The finish was what I call "glowing", but not uncomfortably hot, with a reflection into a full mouth and lips finish. This Old Grand Dad actually left an aftertaste that as a cook I'd describe as a pumpkin pie, allspice taste.

Ignoring my own strong prejudice, I found the Old Grand Dad very consistent and rather well-balanced, robust and more complex than I'd expected, just a bit heavy (for me). I think the OGD would do nicely on the rocks, with few complaints (except mine). At the price Jim payed ($9.95) I'd love to use this one in my baking, where I suspect it would do quite well in my baked goods. I believe I would absolutely like this one on race day in the mint juleps Jim makes for me.

Please forgive me. I've done my best here to ignore my personal prejudices which really have nothing to do with Old Grand Dad itself, and which have not affecte my scoring for a well done, low priced spirit."
Moi: To begin, I was rather impressed with Old Grand Dad 80, though I'm fully aware that most bourbon heads place a great value on higher proofs. Coming from a rum perspective, 40% is common and depending on quality, are more than adequate. Let me begin with a quote:
"Tis beyond my abiliity to understand how any bourbon lover could not appreciate the raw beauty and power of OGD.........it is elemental in its bourbonness. To my palate it is bourbon's ground zero.........all bourbon roads lead away from here. Everything that's great in bourbon lives here in some degree. It might overwhelm the beginner, but to appreciate the top shelf and exceptional bourbons you must (in my opinion) go through Old Grand Dad."
Not that that was a spoiler, right? To be honest, I found myself at Total Wine with the idea of picking up a Rittenhouse Rye for $29.95, but times are tough, so I searched for an Early Times (no luck), almost purchased a Buffalo Trace (based on Murray's love affair with BT), but then spotted this absolutely classic simple and traditional bottle with it's large old time orange label and neckband and for a mere $9.95, why not? Sue Sea would surely understand, right? How wrong I was, as it was not the price, but the middle brain memories. Since she's explained her difficulties with this one, I won't repeat but we should all be thankful and impressed that she carried forward in service to the rest of us, including all the monkey readers as well.

From the nose, I would not have immediately guessed this to be a bourbon. Nor a rye. It could even have been John Glaser creation. The nose was unique and very pleasantly balanced: spices, a deep deep orange, and vanillan that you'd expect from a good pure rum and yes, a modicum of rye. A distant, distant deep leather/tar. But all so pleasantly integrated and enticing that the glass begs you to head on in. The entry palate was cool, smooth and consistent, with a deep orangy heat - a black pepper - creeps forward and smoothly grows to a rather distinctive white pepper glow, so very reminiscent of a Cuban style finish. At this point in our tasting experience we cannot speak more highly of the notion of sweet/heat in balance. Compare to a Chinese General Tso chicken.

Spirits are all about balancing effects, harmony and integration. And of a course complexity of the kind that makes you work, work, work to figure out the components. Truth be told, there is little reason to do that (though most faux reviewers take pride in delivering a laundry list of clever aromas and tastes that do nothing to actually describe the experience). The bourbon heads have already written off the OGD 80 based on both price and proof, shame on them. That is pure prejudice, but back to the Old Grand Dad. If I were you I'd pay attention to both reviews here. I do find Sue Sea's cherry a stretch and likely a remnant of history, but I thank her for her hard work on this on. I didn't ask her to put herself out in the face of bad memories, and after I learned this, I made sure to let her know that none of us expect this kind of sacrifice.

God bless her. She really cares about you.

I should add that Jim Murray feels much the same way as I do. A bourbon made in the old style, with plenty enough rye to create a kind of intrigue and balance, heartiness, complexity and impact that buyint this bourbon is an absolute no-brainer and an automatic Best Buy.


Score (10 is best): Sue Sea - strong 7, Moi - low 8.
User avatar
Capn Jimbo
Rum Evangelisti and Compleat Idiot
Posts: 3550
Joined: Mon Dec 11, 2006 3:53 pm
Location: Paradise: Fort Lauderdale of course...
Contact:

Post by Capn Jimbo »

The more I've tasted OGD...


...the more I am impressed. Now this can simply be personal preference, but both Sue Sea and I work very, very hard to keep our own private preferences out of it. Only quasi-reviewers like the Frozen One believe that the reading public is so devoid of talent that they desperately require the masterbaiter's guidance and scoring which are completely personal (and which reflect his own bitter sensitive palate). We don't, nor do the best among us - Ralfy, Broom, Pacult, Jackson, Robinson, Parker et al.

But I will admit that OGD appears to be one of those spirits like Barbancourt Five Star or Pussers where my unbiased opinion and personal preference converge. From my perspective OGD is very special, and easily worth twice or more its affordable price. As always much prejudice is price based. You know, a "super-premium" just HAS to be better.


It's not true

As I continue to slowly empty this bottle as a frequent tipple (which is rare enough anyway) I continue to discover new elements like apple, medium fruits, spices from black and white pepper, to corn, to sour rye bread, honey, root beer, Sue Sea's leather, corn and a general warm sensations of baked goods in the oven.

I'm not alone in this. Jim Murray says of Old Grand Dad:
"This one's all about the small grains... busy, lively... a whiskey lover's whiskey... the excellence of the structure and complexity outweighs any historical (differences). Enormously improved and now very much at home with its own busy style"
He finds the 100 proof even more impressive. And this for a bottom shelf product to boot. It's not my business really, but if I were you I'd consider risking your pocket change on this one.
Hassouni
Minor God
Posts: 438
Joined: Sun May 05, 2013 5:58 pm

Post by Hassouni »

Try the 114, it's a total ripper. Delightfully intense
User avatar
bearmark
Beermeister
Posts: 270
Joined: Sat Jun 02, 2012 4:35 pm
Location: Near Dallas Texas
Contact:

Post by bearmark »

Basil Hayden's name hasn't been dropped by Beam Suntory, it lives on with this offering. Also, the picture on the bottle of Old Grand Dad whiskies is none other than Hayden himself.

By the way, all of the Old Grand Dad bourbons are well respected in the bourbon circles that I participate in. You'll almost never hear anyone speaking poorly of any of them, although the Bottled-in-Bond and 114 have particularly strong followings and the 80° is rarely mentioned. I usually hear them praised as a group with a favorite mentioned among them and I find at least one of them to be a regular in most personal bars/cellars.
Mark Hébert
Rum References: Flor de Caña 18 (Demeraran), The Scarlet Ibis (Trinidadian), R.L. Seale 10 (Barbadian), Appleton Extra (Jamaican), Ron Abuelo 12 (Cuban), Barbancourt 5-Star (Agricole)
Post Reply