Cana Brava: a premium white for Cuban mixed drinks?

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Hassouni
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Cana Brava: a premium white for Cuban mixed drinks?

Post by Hassouni »

Capn Jimbo wrote: There's no real demand for the old Bacardi or the old Cuban mixed drinks. For the godz sakes the only place you can even find an authentic Mai Tai is at the Mai Kai in Fort Lauderdale plus perhaps one or two other remaining relic bars.

Since Cuban rums have been illegal in the United States for more than two generations, no one here has a clue as what those rums were or are now; ergo the demand - if true - is not for a true Cuban rum/mixed drink, but only the promoted and romantic idea of one. Ergo the promotion of "Don Pancho" and his far distant Cuban heritage, hardly relevent or meaningful now (as should be evident from his missing-in-action portfolio).
I think there's more demand than you realize. South Florida, for all its amazing Latin culture, is not a hotbed of cocktail culture, despite all the Cubans! In New York, San Francisco, Portland, and possibly even DC, there is a demand for and thriving culture of Cuban-inspired drinks. Death and Co., of New York, one of the most influential cocktail bars in the world, just released a landmark book in which they have an entire section on daiquiri variations, and in which Caña Brava gets their highest recommendation. The same could be said for Beachbum Berry's new book, Potions of the Caribbean, which has two chapters on Cuban drinks (more print space than any other island). For that matter, one can easily get an authentic Mai Tai at any place that knows its shit. Again, I can't speak for Southern Florida, but even here in sleepy DC one can get a Mai Tai made with real rum, lime juice, and orgeat.

As for no one here having a clue what Cuban rum tastes like, pretty much anyone into cocktails who has travelled at all internationally has sampled (if not bought lots of) Havana Club añejo blanco. Caña Brava is really close to that profile. Not identical no, but it's very much in the same section of ballpark. This is not to say Flor de Caña is not, either, but it doesn't knock Caña Brava's own achievement at nailing that style. I have no idea who Don Pancho really is or what his history might be, and I don't care too much, other than the fact that he's succeeded at what 86 Co wanted him to do.

By the way, from the list of white rums you posted, only FdC would I use in a daiquiri, mojito, or any of the classic Cuban drinks. Matusalem Platino has no taste, and Doorly's White (not the 3 year, which is unavailable at TW) was VERY disappointing. Jamaican-style or Demerara-style, and cane juice rums, while they may be great, don't taste right in these drinks. I would nominate Palo Viejo from Puerto Rico as a good, cheap candidate for Cuban style, but it's not that easy to find on the mainland (though it can be tracked down)




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Capn's Log: Hass' post is a split from a Scuttlebutt post on Cana Brava as a "premium" white rum for general mixing. Hass' post is focused more on its use to replace Havana Club 3 Anos in authentic Cuban mixed drinks.
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Capn Jimbo
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Post by Capn Jimbo »

Speaking of Jeff...


...I've always been a big fan of Berry's and own a number of his books. Unfortunately his new Caribbean tome is over $30 hardcover, so it'll have to wait for paperback.

In the meanwhile though, although most mixed drinks require good gold and aged rums, a reasonable number seem to require white or lighter rums. Jeff makes no secret that the two of the rums I suggested (Flor de Cana Extra Dry White, and Mount Gay's straw colored Special Reserve) are more than adequate substitutes for the light/white Cuban and the former Puerto Rican lights. Quoting Jeff:
"Flor de Cana... a superior - and reasonably priced - product from Nicaragua. (Their) Extra Dry Light rum, 4-year gold, 5-year Black Label and 7-year Grand Reserve all make excellent substitutes for the Puerto Rican and Cuban counterparts."
(Credit: "Remixed")

Actually my comment re the Mai Kai in Ft. Lauderdale (a truly amazing environment) was also based on Jeff's work. Also in "Remixed" he refers to the original Tiki drinks, which include the Zombie, Mai Tai and others:
"But while Donn's (the Beachcombers) empire died with him leaving nary a trace of his legacy today... aside from the Tiki-Ti, 3000 miles west (in California) at the Mai Kai (in Ft. Lauderdale) you can still sample (Tiki drinks) more or less as prepared 70 years ago."
(Credit "Sippin Safari")


Cuban influence in South Florida


Sue Sea and I are blessed with easy access to both Bacardi's classic headquarters in Miami, and to the original Mai Kai where we've had both the original QB Cooler (copied by Vic Bergeron), the Mai Tai and the Zombie, made under the former direction of Mariano who is alleged to retain the original secret recipes.

The real truth is that by far the great majority of Americans have not travelled overseas, and even those who have may not have had the pleasure of enjoying a real Cuban rum or cigar. For better or worse nearly all of the good white rums listed include their recipes for the Mojito and the Daiquiri. The average American has only these as a basis of comparison. Cana Brava will be competing against the American Mojitos they know.

Most of us are in love with the idea and the history, but not the actuality of the real Cuban experience. We don't know the difference, and if you believe Jeff, Flor de Cana or the old Mount Gay Special Reserve would do as well. He also suggested the Cruzan white. I'd add a few more.

I would respectfully disagree that the mixed drink culture is in any way lacking in South Florida, as a seaside bar tour winding down Ocean Drive aka A1A - from West Palm Beach, Boca Raton, Deerfield Beach, Pompano Beach, Ft. Lauderdale Beach, Hollywood Beach, Miami Beach, South Beach, Coconut Grove - not to mention the many miles via the island hopping US1 beginning in Key Largo, Isla Morada, Marathon, Big Pine Key and ending up in the amazing Conch Republic of Key West (just 60 miles from Cuba) - such a trip would absolutely change your mind.

We have perhaps the best local rum outlets in the world, with the best selection and certainly at the best prices, particularly in that we are heavily populated with people from the Caribbean and South and Central America. The one glaring exception: we have little access to the British and European independents. Florida in general is a tourist destination; for example tiny Key West (which you can easily walk) attracts over 4 million visitors a year, and believe me the Cuban-style drinks are poured non-stop, often accompanied by the fine locally handrolled Rodriguez cigars. Same on Calle Ocho in Miami at the world famous Versaille, where you can order a Cafe Cubano from the sidewalk, and watch the old Cuban men playing dominoes.


Back to "86"


All said, my post dealt with white or light mixing rums in general; although company "86" does indeed focus on and create spirits for the bartending trade, the "Cana Brava" public website promotes this 3 year light rum as mixer for a wide variety of mixed drinks beyond the Daiquiri.

The company's promo material positions their Cana Brava as a "recreation of Bacardi's Carta Blanca". Frankly this is a strange proposition as first - the modern Carta Blanca (the only one we know) is featured in every bar I know of, second that to go directly up against Bacardi - a ferocious marketer - is a foole's errand and last, that the Bacardi is about half the price. And not to beat a dead horse, but most of their clientele that for the most part has never experienced el elemento Cubano auténtico!

Most of the leading bartenders - and Jeff Berry - recommend fair substitutions for the original Cuban Bacardi Carta Blanca of Hemingway fame, at this time including: Havana Club, Flor de Cana, Mount Gay Special Reserve (if you can find any), or Ron Matusalem Platino. Or yes, Bacardi's current Carta Blanca. All available for less than the Cana Brava. I'd include a few others.

I'll say it again: premium-priced white rums have repeatedly failed to succeed. The examples are legion. Here's what I believe will happen, regardless:


Predictions:

1. At retail, this rum will either fail outright at its premium $30-$35 price, or it will soon have to lower it's price into the $16 to $18 range. It appears the Cana Brava opened in the mid $30's, but as Hass mentioned is already available for less, around $27. Compare to Tommy Bahama Sand which opened at $40, quickly dropped to $30 and is now an $8 closeout.

2. In the bars, I'll bet the price has been lowered already. Bacardi's reps will be aggressive as always. Bacardi is known to offer near giveaway pricing for exclusivity and to eliminate competition. By doing so they have caused name resorts, chains and uncountable individual bars to commit to Bacardi only for their bar rums. It's just like shelf space.

3. High end bars can ignore Bacardi, but will do so only as long as there is customer demand which will be a function of whether "86" is willing and able to spend the continuing bucks required to keep it forefront and "hot" elsewhere. Can they? Not likely with their mixed messege "pirate ship", Halloween looking theme which may work with the party crowd, but for the sophisticated world traveller?

There's a limit, and if anyone thinks Bacardi won't react, think again. They'd already released a special edition for their 150th Anniversary some time ago, called "Neo" - a super-premium white sold retail at $45 (to the public). Don't be surprised if the reps don't drop the price into Brava range to blow them out. Right now they're just watching with curiosity, while CB enjoys their 15 minutes of pirate fame.

All in all, an interesting release, but truth be told it's all 90% marketing, positioning and power. "86" may be all too well named in this regard...




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Merriam Webster - "86" is a slang term that is used in the American popular culture as a transitive verb to mean throw out or get rid of, particularly in the food service industry as a term to describe an item no longer available on the menu, or to refuse service to a customer.
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