Black Squirrel Dept: A nutty new "rum"?

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Capn Jimbo
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Black Squirrel Dept: A nutty new "rum"?

Post by Capn Jimbo »

You heard it first here...


...no, not that there's a new micro-distillery in Buffalo called the Black Squirrel Distillery, but that their nutty claim - that their distillate of maple syrup can be labelled "rum" (as promoted by the Shillery's resident expert, Mamajuana) - is either complete squirrel nuggets, or the degradation of "rum" is now complete.

Dig this:
Quoting Jason Schwinger of Black Squirrel:

“The reason for rum is that nobody is doing it. NY State law designates us with a Class D Farm Distillery License. That means that we must make our spirits with a minimum of 75% NYS farm ingredients. That’s easy for whiskeys and cideries, but there is no sugar being produced in NYS. That makes it hard to produce rum. So we decided to use maple trees instead.

The problem was, the US Tariff and Taxation Bureau (TTB) is in charge of dictating what your spirit can be called (what it actually is), and there was no designation for rum made from maple syrup. Fortunately, we were able to obtain TTB formula classification as rum with label approval.

Now, instead of using press sugar cane juice and molasses, we are the first modern day distillery to make rum out of maple syrup – it’s going to be a traditional amber rum style. It’s new to New York State and created by Black Squirrel.”
http://buffalorising.com/2014/11/black- ... distillery

Now either the TTB is now willing to completely ignore their own Standards of Identity - or - the distiller misunderstands the application process - or - they have yet to get actual label approval - or - they are applying not for "rum" as we know it, but as a "fanciful" spirit (a spirit of such uniqueness that there exist no common industry or consumer understanding.


So how does it work?

The process works something like this: the first step is to get "formula approval" which is exactly what it sounds like. First you consult the pre-COLA test/form to see what forms and/or, analysis you may need based on the product type.
http://www.ttb.gov/industry_circulars/a ... pirits.pdf

In almost all cases you will need to submit a "formula" form TTB F 5100.51, for pre-approval by the TTB. The formula must include a detailed and specific quantitative list of each and every ingredient in the product, and a detailed description of the entire production process. At a minimum it must include:
  • 1. Information on the agricultural source of alcohol for any distilled spirits used in the product;
    2.The percentage of alcohol by volume/proof at distillation of any distilled spirits used in the product;
    3. Identification and source of any flavoring material used in the product;
    4. A specific description of when flavoring material is added in the production of the product; and
    5. The total volume and alcohol content of the finished product.
So far so good, and unless your product contains certain "prohibited substances", it appears that pre-approval is of almost any distilled spirit is perfunctory.

It appears the Fuzzy Tail Boyz have gotten at least pre-approval.

The next step is "label approval" and this is where things get more specific. According to section §5.32 Mandatory label information:
  • (1) Brand name.
    (2) Class and type, in accordance with §5.35.
    (3) Alcoholic content, in accordance with §5.37.
Let me keep it simple and say that number (2) requries that the label must clearly state the identity of the spirit as per good old section §5.22 The standards of identity, specifically:
"(f) Class 6; rum. “Rum” is an alcoholic distillate from the fermented juice of sugar cane, sugar cane syrup, sugar cane molasses, or other sugar cane by-products, produced at less than 190° proof in such manner that the distillate possesses the taste, aroma, and characteristics generally attributed to rum, and bottled at not less than 80° proof; and also includes mixtures solely of such distillates."
Thus "Rum" MUST be made from sugar cane or one of its direct by-products (eg cane syrup, molasses). NO EXCEPTIONS!


So how can maple distillate be labeled?

That would be as a specialty spirits, NOT already defined in section §5.22 (above). Clearly, a spirit made from maple syrup has not ever been defined. According to §5.25, these special, unusual or what the TTB calls "fanciful" spirits MUST be labeled with "a distinctive or fanciful name, and... a truthful and adequate statement of composition."

Thus this maple distillate might be called "Maple Surprise" or "Pancake Dreams", "made from distilled Grade A Maple syrup". It can't even be called an "Imitation Rum" as this distillate fails even to meet that standard.




*******
http://www.ttb.gov/formulation/pre_cola.shtml
http://www.ttb.gov/forms/f510031.pdf
http://www.ecfr.gov/cgi-bin/text-idx?SI ... ain_02.tpl
Last edited by Capn Jimbo on Tue Nov 25, 2014 5:55 pm, edited 3 times in total.
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Post by da'rum »

I think if you use your excellent research skills Jimbo you'll find threads about Maple syrup distillate over at Home Distiller or Artisan Distiller. Something about convertable sugars is nagging at me.
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Post by da'rum »

http://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtopi ... aple+Syrup

Sugars-
It is generally 1-2.5%
Added brown sugar to get ferment

So is really Maple syrup flavoured rum if someone were to draw a massively long bow.
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Post by Capn Jimbo »

Ya gotta love the homedistillers crew...


...they'll try anything. An interesting thread, but even they admit it's not "rum", at least legally...
"Can it really be called a maple syrup rum? Wouldn't maple syrup brandy or schnapps be a better name?"

And...

"Ok, I suppose it couldn't be called rum. I've been calling it rum because I took my rum recipe and subbed in maple syrup to see what would happen. Then I added the yeast nutrients, molasses, and brown sugar because I couldn't find any information anywhere concerning yeast nutrient content in maple syrup... Maple brandy it is!"
Gotta love em...
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Post by Dai »

WTF next!!

I don't know what that spirit is but, it aint rum!
Life is under no obligation to give us what we expect!

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Post by Blade Rummer »

da'rum wrote:http://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtopi ... aple+Syrup

Sugars-
It is generally 1-2.5%
Added brown sugar to get ferment

So is really Maple syrup flavoured rum if someone were to draw a massively long bow.
My first thought about this was : "WTF, that isn't rum" quickly followed by "I'm skeptical that a maple syrup ferment would impart any noticeable flavor to the end product".

Knowing something about maple syrup (I'm Québecois after all) and using it in many recipes over the years, I can say that maple syrup by itself has a very light taste and that it takes a lot of it to add the distinctive maple syrup taste we come to expect. This is one of the reasons so many maple flavored produced foods you find (well, we find here anyway) are artificially flavored, it would be extremely costly to use enough maple syrup to flavor a donut with, for ex.

So, when I clicked on the link provided by da'rum I was not at all surprised to see that the recipe for this "rum" contains maple syrup added after aging and before bottling for flavor.

My 0.02$ is that you could of taken a standard rum and just added maple flavoring and you would have a maple flavored rum (there are maple flavored whiskeys on the market that do this), why they instead decided to ferment maple syrup only to have to add maple syrup to obtain any maple flavor AND THEN call that rum is pretty misguided to say the least. They should drop the whole rum thing and just market it as a maple based liquor.
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Post by mamajuana »

Here is a short update about this spirit.... After the push back of release dates a date for release has been announced of Feb 21. It will also not be labeled as rum due to a whistle blower.



several updated quotes from the article :
"Black Squirrel Distillery will be releasing 200 bottles of its craft spirit in just over a week, when it opens its 1595 Elmwood Avenue storefront.

But they won't call it rum. Yet.

But after a Business First story in November, a third-party complained to the director of the TTB about that classification. The classification still exists, but Black Squirrel has decided to hold off calling the drink rum to avoid any production delays.

"Unfortunately, it is somewhat predictable that any time a company has a disruptive, innovative product, that you will receive opposition from existing industry," Pelkey said. "Of course, we have been working cooperatively with the TTB so that we don't experience any delays in releasing Black Squirrel to market."

"Pelkey continued: "That being said, it is fully our intention to pursue all legal, regulatory and political options so that rum made from maple can be officially classified as a sub-type of rum under TTB regulations."
"

Full article at:
http://www.bizjournals.com/buffalo/blog ... iquor.html


This has even drawn response from Ian Burrell on this website. He posted the following comment:
"This must be an early April Fool's joke. Good luck guys. You have positively NO CHANCE of it ever being called rum. Your legal team obviously do not understand what the definition of rum is ? Even by the TTB 'loose' definition of what rum is it's plain to see that if it's not from a by product of SUGARCANE (and not ANYTHING that produces sugar) then it categorically cannot be called rum. What's next ? Tequila made from maize ?"

All this said I will still be visiting there on Saturday to purchase a bottle or two for tasting purposes to support local economy.
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Post by Capn Jimbo »

When even the Badassitor won't call it rum, you know it isn't... assuming he's figured out where the Caribbean is by now:


http://www.rumproject.com/caribbean.html
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Post by mamajuana »

How interesting to say the least that article is. Clearly outrageous market control that should be illegal.

How fitting it was also that when I opened the link the random Java Picture was a marijauana leaf that said Jamaica's finest above our dear Badassitor.
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Post by mamajuana »

Today Black Squirrel launched at 12 noon. There were 200 bottles for sale. This batch has been aged in new French Oak Barrels. I arrived at around 12:05. There was already a line out the door of their shop. I got into line and it was about 25 min to get inside to the tasting bar still in line to purchase one of the few available bottles.

I was first handed a taste of the Black Squirrel straight up. I have to say an incredibly complex spirit. There is a nice strong flavorful initial spice to it and it has an incredibly long finish of toasted oak that seemed to go on for as long as 5-10 mins. They also offered a small tasting of a mixed drink called the sugar shack which is their signature drink. It is made with The black Squirrel and maple simple syrup, very sweet but very good for a mixed drink.

While at the tasting table in a slow moving line I was able to chat with one of the Co-owners. I had a few comments and questions he said that while the definition for this product under the TTB still is there to to called rum and has not gone away, they have decided not to use it at this time. There is a complicated back story and I wish I had more time to discuss this issue yet there were many people behind so I had to keep it moving. He said to contact him and he would be happy to explain the further details behind what is actually going on here.

After another short wait in line after the tasting table I found out There was a two bottle limit so I bought my two bottles of batch #1 after about 40-45 min in line. Priced at 38.99 each they sold out in about 2 hours.

I have not had time to do further tasting yet of one of my bottles but will update further notes after a more expansive tasting. By my initial reaction is that I was impressed by this honest spirit.
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Post by Capn Jimbo »

Brilliant report, Mama...


We are pretty familiar with the regulations, in particular the Standards of Identity. Although the regulations are badly abused insofar as the additives clause, there has never been a questions as to what constitutes a "rum". Clearly these boyz' claim is all bark (Maple) but no, uh bite and they seem to be trying desperately to claim a novel explanation that - yes - there is a secret background and explanation, but - no - that they were not willing to discuss to you at that time.

My personal view remains unchanged as per the OP. However, do please follow-up to get the secret explanantion, as it should be entertaining. Perhaps they need time to create one, or not. Last, I'm intrigued by the idea of a "whistle blower"...

Was the "whistle blower" claim one of theirs, or do you personally know of the person or entity who "complained". Is it possible there was no whistle blower, and that the ATB simply stopped him at the label stage? Methinks the latter, as the SID's are so clear and basic that they stand clearly on their own, and hardly require a whistle blower to illuminate.
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