Barbancourt Cane Juice Rums: Comparing 4, 8 and 15 Years

The third standard reference style: rum, er rhum, made directly from sugar cane juice or honey, rather than from molasses. To the Haitians and French... toast!
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Which Barbancourt Rum is your favorite?

Three Star (4 years)
0
No votes
Five Star (8 years)
2
100%
Fifteen Year
0
No votes
 
Total votes: 2

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Capn Jimbo
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Barbancourt Cane Juice Rums: Comparing 4, 8 and 15 Years

Post by Capn Jimbo »

A flight not soon forgotten...

The precursor to this post was a comment by "RT" wondering how his beloved 15 Year compared to the 8 Year. Sue Sea and I had tasted the 15 (I knew this because about a third of the bottle was gone), so I looked for the review I was sure we'd done.

Missing!

What?! I know we tasted this rum, but somehow the notes must have been lost. And a rum owned is a rum reviewed around here. So I begged Sue Sea to join me in a retaste (which didn't take much persuasion, I might add). And in setting it up thought we really ought to do a comparative flight with the Three and Five Star. Later we added two other rums (more anon).

So we engaged in our usual set up.

Lights down, fish tank lit, all three bottles on the lazy susan (couldn't resist, Sue Sea), and both of us with three of our tasting glasses from IKEA, with a decent pour of each.

What was especially interesting about this comparison is that - in the case of Barbancourt - we are dealing with a product line whose only difference is that of aging, and not blending. Thus we could learn what age and good Limosin oak accomplishes with the product.

Great!

Unlike our typical reviews, the following are our joined impressions. It might be beneficial if you first read the full reviews of all three:

Barbancourt Three Star (4 year):
This of course is the youngest of the three, and sets the stage for further aging. The Three Star is the least complex, but entirely pleasant. The dominant aroma is undeniably of reedy cane which clearly establishes the cane juice origin of this rum. Any sweetness, et al, is underneath. Three Star presents as clean and crisp. In the mouth it opens smooth and almost sweet, but explodes into a caney, white peppery hot and noticeably astringent finish with a lingering peppery aftertaste. Think "Hot Lips Houlihan".

Think hollow, from an opening, single minded cane aroma, to an explosive peppery cane finish.
Barbancourt Five Star (8 year):
With the foregoing in mind, the Five Year presents quite differently. Now a vanilla sweetness has come forward, in pleasant balance with a the reed, over oak. The reed has retreated but is still nicely evident and is now in balance. The entire sensation is crisp, light and refreshing and consistent with the more balanced aroma. More complexity is evident. The body is now medium (rather than light). The finish remains peppery but seems smoother, and with less atringency.

Think smooth, balanced and more complex.
Barbancourt Estate Reserve (15 year):
Now what has age accomplished? Aromawise we now experience yet more complexity, with the reed retreating much further into the distant background. Vanilla, caramel, maple, a robust orange leather and a tarry/oakey furniture polish - all similar to a molasses based profile - have emerged and come to the foreground. The rum is now full bodied and displays vigor throughout. The cane is still there, but some may not realize this is a cane juice rum. The taste remains consistent and balanced. The finish is now almost syrupy hot and peppery.

I stress almost. Think full bodied, balanced, smooth, complex and powerful.
Bottom Line:

This was truly an eye-opening experience.

The effects of oak and aging are dramatic. The reedy/caney origin of these cane juice rums are reduced by aging. By 15 years only a remnant of the origin remains. By 8 years the rum is more balanced and smooth and vanilla, a light nuttiness, sweetness and oak have emerged. Body is now medium. By 15 years and the end of effective aging, the deep orange and tarry leathers have come forward. The burnt sugars and carmelisation of the oak is clear. The finish is hot, sweet and peppery. The effect is now robust, full bodied and once again pungent, although more complex.

I believe the reason the 8 year Five Star dominates the ratings is because it has achieved great smoothness, balance and complexity but without being anywhere near overdone. The 15 year is still wonderful, but is pushing the edge. The 4 year Three Star has many of the elements of the Five Star, but they have not yet emerged, leaving the cane dominant (wonderful in its own way).

Just for fun we pulled out the highly marketed "10 Cane". In comparison to Barbancourt's Three Star, the 10 Cane had little going on. The Three Star came across as richer and warmer, more complex. The 10 cane was thin, smelled of alcohol, and the lightest possible cane. Otherwise it was very light, very smooth. Let's call it the Vodka of rum.

Last, we poured a dram of - you'd never guess - the new Zaya 12 year (Trinidad). Why? Because it represents the end point of hot, sweet and syrupy. Of course this was compared with Barbancourt's 15 year, which was described in similar terms. If we had any doubt that the Barbancourt had gone too far toward those ends, Zaya demolished this notion. When compared to a truly sweet, truly syrupy hot rum, the Barbancourt 15 year demonstrated where the line really is. And the background cane became more apparent.

All in all, an extremely fun and educational evening. I cannot stress enough: if you want to learn about aging, you can do no better (nor more economically) than this comparison.

Up spirits!
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Post by RT »

I've been wanting to try this flight ever since I read your post. But... no 3 star or 5 star on my shelf, and the old Zaya in stead of the new. So when I had the opportunity recently to drink some 5 star at a restaurant, I pulled out the others when I got home and had a go.

For the most part, I agreed with your observations.

Tasted by itself, I found the 5 star as a medium bodied rum, with well balanced flavors of citrus and vanilla, and with a hint of some other spice I couldn't define. Very nice. I will have to look for a bottle during my travels.

Back at home I started with the 15 year, one of my favorites. I enjoy that the cane juice notes remain in subtle balance with the other rum flavors, unlike most other cane juice rums I have tasted. It's a bit fuller bodied than the 5 star, but clearly a big brother to it, the flavor notes are all similar. Whenever I drink the 15 year, I ask myself, what is it about this rum that some people say it is over the top? Not as far as I am concerned.

Next, the 10 Cane. I did not have any 3 star to compare it to, and I am not a big fan of it. I like to refer to the name as Iocane, if you've seen the Princess Bride you'll understand. Kind of a weakly flavored rum with a surprising harshness, I would like to taste the 100 proof version sometime. Many reviewers have suggested it is better. But in tonights tasting, its the 5 star over the Iocane, in a first round flavor knockout.

Finally, the Zaya. I have not tried the new, but I find the old reasonably amusing by the fireplace after a long day of skiing. And flavor intensity wise, it is about as far beyond the 15 year as the Iocane is short of the 5 year. Just too bad some of those flavors aren't natural rum notes.

I'm not insane enough (yet) to try blending the Iocane and Zaya, to see if the magic lamp contains a happy medium.
Students of the cask, reject naught but water. -Charles Gonoud, Faust Act 2
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Post by RT »

Back from a Buffalo trip with 3 star and 5 star in hand, ready to try out the Barbancourt flight on a group of friends. All experienced drinkers but not rummies.

Results were surprising to me. Served neat after a meal of wine and pasta, with no chilling or dilution, 4 preferred the 5 star, 1 preferred the 15 year, and one preferred the 3 star. Of those who preferred the 5 star, the second place votes were split. All asked for more of their favorite after the test was over.

Comments included "crisp and clean" for the 3 star, "this is what whiskey should taste like" for the 5 star, and "a little bit scary" for the 15 year.

My own opinion is that the 5 star tasted better at home than it did in the restaurant, and I would now rate it as equal to the 15 year, depending on my mood/setting: 5 star better as a fireplace sipper, 15 year stands up better against a sweet dessert.
Students of the cask, reject naught but water. -Charles Gonoud, Faust Act 2
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Completed the Barbancourt lineup...

Post by dawsonh »

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On the last trip SoCal I picked up a bottle of the Barbancourt White and 15 year old... completing the set. We have had a several sessions tasting the lot (small amounts in Glencairn glasses or small snifters, mostly neat or with a few drops of water) and have enjoyed every dram. The White is wonderful! It brought back memories of chewing sugar cane as a kid growing up in South Florida. A friend of mine that works in Brasil enjoyed it too, since it was similar, but much smoother, than the Cachaca she regularly drank.

It is fascinating to taste the effects of wood aging. Everyone seems to have a great time debating the merits of each spirit. It has been hard for me to pick a favorite... although the 8yo may have the best investment to reward ratio. I will have to continue my research.

FYI... prices at the Hi Time Wine Cellar were 15, 20, 22, and 40 respectivily. TW was a few dollar more. Either way it is amazing value for a 100 dollar bill.

I really appreciate this forum and all the useful information found within.

Thanks!

Dawson
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Post by Dai »

Funnily enough I was drinking a glass of the five star last night. A nice quality rum but, I think I'm not a fan of Agricole rum, prefer molasses type rums my self. Horses for courses still a quality rum though.
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15 Year Old

Post by bearmark »

I'd especially be interested in notes on the 15 year old with some comparison to the 5-star (8 year old). I really enjoy the 5-star now, but it took a while to get there. Ever since that epiphany, I've been wondering about the 15 year old.
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Rum References: Flor de Caña 18 (Demeraran), The Scarlet Ibis (Trinidadian), R.L. Seale 10 (Barbadian), Appleton Extra (Jamaican), Ron Abuelo 12 (Cuban), Barbancourt 5-Star (Agricole)
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Re: 15 Year Old

Post by Hassouni »

bearmark wrote:I'd especially be interested in notes on the 15 year old with some comparison to the 5-star (8 year old). I really enjoy the 5-star now, but it took a while to get there. Ever since that epiphany, I've been wondering about the 15 year old.
They are VERY different - 7 more years in oak does a lot. I haven't had either in a while so can't give you details, but I REALLY like the 15. I don't know that I'd say I prefer it over the 8, but it really is different.
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Post by dawsonh »

@bearmark Regarding taste notes for the 8 and 15, I think Jimbo and Sue nail it in their comments above (first post). For me the 15 really shows the effect of good wood aging with all the associated vanilla, toffee and oaky spicyness results.. The caney flavors are subdued to the point where the 15 tastes more like a molasses based rum. At this price point ($40) I think I would just as soon enjoy another molasses based rum... at half the price.

However to taste the full set, from zero to 15 years aging, is wonderfully educational, a whole lot of fun and a great crowd pleaser.

P.S. I drank the white and the four with an Asian style fried chicken with garlic ginger sauce, a David Chang recipe… delicious!
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Post by Hassouni »

dawsonh wrote:@bearmark Regarding taste notes for the 8 and 15, I think Jimbo and Sue nail it in their comments above (first post). For me the 15 really shows the effect of good wood aging with all the associated vanilla, toffee and oaky spicyness results.. The caney flavors are subdued to the point where the 15 tastes more like a molasses based rum. At this price point ($40) I think I would just as soon enjoy another molasses based rum... at half the price.
Good luck getting any other honest 15 year old rum in the $40 range though! The only semi-affordable 15 I can think of El Dorado, and we all know about that...
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Post by da'rum »

Ah the pricing riddle, the 15 in Germany which has pretty low alcohol tax in comparison is 54€ / $61 U.S. bizarre.
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Post by Capn Jimbo »

Hassouni wrote: Good luck getting any other honest 15 year old rum in the $40 range though! The only semi-affordable 15 I can think of El Dorado, and we all know about that...
Don't forget MGXO which was promoted as a blend of 10 to 17 year rums, and I believe XO remains relatively pure.
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Post by bearmark »

Capn Jimbo wrote:
Hassouni wrote: Good luck getting any other honest 15 year old rum in the $40 range though! The only semi-affordable 15 I can think of El Dorado, and we all know about that...
Don't forget MGXO which was promoted as a blend of 10 to 17 year rums, and I believe XO remains relatively pure.
Speaking of MGXO, has anyone seen the new packaging? It's now in the style of Black Barrel. The real question is whether the juice is changed. I was able to stock up on the old bottles at $26 before the holidays.
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Rum References: Flor de Caña 18 (Demeraran), The Scarlet Ibis (Trinidadian), R.L. Seale 10 (Barbadian), Appleton Extra (Jamaican), Ron Abuelo 12 (Cuban), Barbancourt 5-Star (Agricole)
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Post by Capn Jimbo »

Bear, there are now so many posts here that I can't find it, but Sue Sea and I just happened to have a very old, classic bottle of MGXO as well as a fairly recent, modern bottle and yes, there was a difference.

JaRiMi was perhaps the first to both speculate and note that it seemed like MG was saving more of the older components for the 1703, while cheapening the MGXO and our comparative tasting did verify that.

Still, MGXO remains a good value for a well made and blended offering.
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Post by bearmark »

Capn Jimbo wrote:Bear, there are now so many posts here that I can't find it, but Sue Sea and I just happened to have a very old, classic bottle of MGXO as well as a fairly recent, modern bottle and yes, there was a difference.

JaRiMi was perhaps the first to both speculate and note that it seemed like MG was saving more of the older components for the 1703, while cheapening the MGXO and our comparative tasting did verify that.

Still, MGXO remains a good value for a well made and blended offering.
Just want to clarify that the change in packaging that I'm referring to here apparently happened (at least in Texas) within the last month or so. Potentially, this is the second such change for MGXO. If the last one resulted in a change in the contents, then this one could too. The bottles that I bought are on the left and the new bottle design is on the right.
ImageImage
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Rum References: Flor de Caña 18 (Demeraran), The Scarlet Ibis (Trinidadian), R.L. Seale 10 (Barbadian), Appleton Extra (Jamaican), Ron Abuelo 12 (Cuban), Barbancourt 5-Star (Agricole)
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Post by Hassouni »

Getting OT, but I tried some 1703 and god damn. That's the unadulterated rum I'd give to non-rum drinkers. Beautiful.
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