The Lab Speaks Dept: Bermudez and Sugar Regionalization

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Capn Jimbo
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The Lab Speaks Dept: Bermudez and Sugar Regionalization

Post by Capn Jimbo »

Bermudez Aniversario 12 Year: sugared or not?


Answer: Yes. And No. And THAT is the point. And perhaps the Bermudez Aniversario is the poster boy for a practice I have long suspected. Here's the amazing story...


The ahem, story...

I've finally become more active in testing and recently tested a nearly full bottle of this rum. I'd purchased the rum a couple years ago, had a quick nip, was not impressed and left it aside. But the need for new tests drew it out of the closet and into the uh, lab for testing. The result: 26 grams, no surprise, in Plantation and El Dorado territory. But when I opened the database to add this result, I was shocked to see that the Pirate had reported his earlier test at, gulp...

Zero, yup, 0 grams! A massive difference if true, but at this point I was sure I must have made a typing error and quickly shot off an email to him, relating my test and asking him to confirm whether I needed a remedial typing class. Today I received his answer: he rechecked it and yes, his retest was still zero. And he stated he'd purchased the rum about the same time I did. Further, I have complete confidence in both the test and our mutual skills in performing this easy and accurate process. The point?

I could chalk up a difference of a gram or two to the tester, but a 26 gram difference? No fackin way. WTF was/is going on?


Flat Ass Bottom Line

Regulars here will remember that I gave the idea of testing a real college try a couple of years ago, and even generated some excitement around here, but I never came up with the exact protocol. It was Johnny Drejer - may the Godz bless him - who turned the world of rogue rum on its butt - with his methodology and spreadsheet chart that allowed converting tested alcohol into assumed grams of sugar. And here we are!

At that time and recognizing a breakthrough I was excited nearly beyond measure at what Johnny's breakthrough meant:
  • 1. That any idiot could easily and relatively cheaply test rum.

    2. This decentralization of testing meant that rum drinkers from around the world could test their collections at will.
    3. That any differences, bad bottles or tests could be easily confirmed by the same or other testers.
    4. That - and this is the BIG one - that any regional differences in product would become apparent.
As for the distillers, they could no longer shuck and jive, run or hide. All bets were off with Johnny's new paradigm: decentralization. Bravo!

Even now I've noted some trends. The first is that "premiumization" of lesser rums is often accomplished by secret sugaring and other additives. Some of the worst offenders are the super-premiums (think Z23). A recent comparison of Santa Teresa's Claro, Anejo and 1796 showed that price and sugar increased together.


But Bermudez was something new, and just how might this be? I think: regionalization!

Both the test and the testers are/were meticulous and reliable. And a huge 26 gram difference simply cannot be explained away by for example, the notion of blending to taste. Nope, the only possible explanation is that Bermudez is sugaring based on marketing. The American market is very well known for having a sweet tooth, ergo my American bottle tested at 26 grams and the Pirate's British bottle at zero grams.

Nonetheless I look with aniticipation for the opinions of our very talented and thoughful co-members. Thoughts?
mamajuana
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Post by mamajuana »

It's entirely possible.


This could be true or it could simply be a batch difference.


Bermudez rum is very hard to find in the USA... But well is it really? By this I mean the actual distiller's bottles are very hard to find these days. Especially the rum here in question. I found the Aniversario one time and it was very dusty some time ago. But in reality their distilled products are all over and measure different sugar ratios.

The first several that come to mind...

Kirk and Sweeney

This rum is clearly from the Bermudez distillery it proudly states not only the country of production but the location "Santiago de los Caballeros" The location of the Bermudez distillery in the DR. It can be found everywhere.

The 12 year now has now released over 15 batches of about 40,000 bottles per batch. The quality and taste of these batches varies as does the sugar content ranging from almost none to being very sweet to others. The batch 15 I had was incredibly dry and I felt quite natural and comparable to the 12yr aniversario. A rough sugar test of batch 15 indicated nothing seriously notable. then again others on earlier batches thought it was quite the vanilla bomb that I just did not find. Tasters found this rum on different ends of the spectrum from dry to overly sweet in the US due to batch differences. The Projects Sugar test of this rum shows 4G (Batch #1).

Also of note K&S have now released their 18 year and 23 year variations which just are starting to hit store shelves. At very low prices I may add the 23 year sells for less than 50 dollars , the 18 less than 40.


Matusalem

Many call Matusalem a distiller. Unknown to many is that Matusalem since it has been in the DR has never distilled rum. Bermudez under "long term contract" with the family has distilled their products.
Through a joint venture with Mexican tequila maker Jose Cuervo and Miami investors, Alvarez relaunched the Matusalem name. He terminated the company's bottling contracts and moved operations to the Dominican Republic. Using contacts from his students days in Santiago he made a leasing contract with the local distillery, Ron Bermudez, the country's best-selling brand.
http://www.sptimes.com/2005/03/14/news_ ... _rum.shtml


Ron Matusalem while slightly harder to locate than the K&S at least in my parts still can be had in many locations far more than the Distillers own label.

Also of note ... these numbers keep coming up in their products... 18 year (35.00), 23 year(no US price avail to be release soon). They also have a 15 year Solera. Interesting to note while the bottles of Aniversario sometimes state 12 year the company has removed the age statement in some countries such as Canada and state verbally that this rum is up to 15 years old.


Pumpkin Face rum
http://www.pumpkinfacerum.com/

Pumpkin Face rum? Yes really. While I had to order my set of four online last year it is a bit harder to find and not well distributed yet it can be easier at least in my research to find than Bermudez Aniversario.

How can I say pumpkin Face is Bermudez stock? First off the numbers. Again we have Pumpkin face 23 year old.

"distilled in 1980, matured in oak barrels for 23 years, and rested in stainless steel for a further decade before release. Rich, spicy and nutty. " -59.00


"Hailing from the Dominican Republic, Pumpkin Face Reserve contains rums distilled in the 1980s, 1990s and 2000s, and aged for up to 20 years. Rich, sweet and spicy." If they had to put a number on this average I bet we would see 18 year. - 39.00

Bermudez has gone to bulk selling


Also of note - a possible sale of 100000 liters of 15 year old to sugared rum giant Oliver and Oliver (Producer of Atlantico et el).

Latest numbers has their market share of rum down to 6% in the DR, they need to sell their distillate somewhere. Bermudez is selling more of its products in bulk than packaging their own from their massive stocks in warehouse as their own popularity has dwindled. When they do sometimes bottle they may use whatever they have already blended possibly from overestimating an order from a private bottler to reduce shrink costs as they are struggling. Are these batches targeted to certain markets that ordered the said distillate? Its possible.


Not to mention their labeling practices back this up...

Some Aniversario bottles state "12 years old", some simply "anejo", Others have no age statement and reps claim 15 years old.
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