Grappa Review: Grappa Stravecchia Le Diciotto Lune

Great tasters note that one way to better your understanding of a spirit is to try others. We've already tried calvados, cognac, armangnac, tequila, whisky and gin. Here's some of the more unusual spirits and drinks. Mead me halfway on this, woncha?
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Capn Jimbo
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Grappa Review: Grappa Stravecchia Le Diciotto Lune

Post by Capn Jimbo »

Grappa Stravecchia Le Diciotto Lune: "Not your grandpa's grappa"

I can hear you from here "What is 'grappa', why is it in the whisky section, and what in the Preacher's name is it doing in a section designed to improve our appreciation of the few, truly pure rums?".

Grappa is really what you might call a modern evolution of Italian moonshine. Wine and Italy go together like Liberace and Elton John, but surely there was something else to be done with (a) the wine or (b) the skins and must from which wine is fermented.

There is. Grappa.

Like cachaca in Brazil, this classic Italian moonshine was made by many, many grandpas. The "must" or "pomace" of wine grapes - the skins, stems, seeds and leftover pulp - was squeezed yet again (like a cheaper olive oil), perhaps fermented and distilled into "grappa". This was done using typical moonshine type stills, and was usually drunk without aging.

Pure, white, powerful and which left the top of your head glowing. Only later did grappa making go legal and commercial with distillers producing a somewhat better quality, more reliable grappa, usually from the leftovers of a single grape variety.

Still unaged, this basic grappa - representing literally 99% of all production - is still a rather tough, harsh spirit - no wonder Grandpa's hair turned white.

Enter Grappa Stravecchia Le Diciotto Lune.

A bottle of this rare aged product was kindly provided to me by "Robert" their American representative, a man who truly knows his spirits. Please be aware that we always buy our own spirits (to eliminate bias), but have made a very rare exception for spirits we simply can't find.

Le Diciotto Lune ("18 Moons") represent a rarely achieved and closely regulated category of "Stravecchia" (meaning "very old"). Think the "Grand Cru" of the prestigious French wine rating system.

A "Stravecchia" must be aged at least 18 months. Le Diciotto is a blend of fine aged grappa up to 5 years old, and made from a blend of eight - four red and four white - grape varietals. It is batch distilled in small classic copper "alembic" pot stills just once (!) for maximum flavor, but does use what they call a "concentration column" to preserve these flavors.

No doubt a simple reflux system for the anally retentive.

The result: a fine spirit intended to compete with fine whiskeys, and a few fine rums. Does it? And does Le Diciotto Lune give us an insight into the purity rum lovers seek? Keep reading... and if you can find it, expect to pay a dear price - perhaps $45 for a 500ml bottle!

Sue Sea:
As per Jim's request, I'm going to treat this review as I would for any fine spirit, and then see how Le Diciotto Lune stacks up. First is the presentation, ever important to me. Le Diciotto Lune does not disappoint. Ours came in a stunning 200ml, pistol type bottle worthy of only the very finest, very rarest spirits, or a very rare gifted virgin olive oil. This encourages you to pour carefully and to savor the contents. But just what would I experience?

I was unprepared for what was to come. Le Diciotto Lune's aroma was really quite complex: peach, pear, sour green apple, celery, perhaps a bit of asparagus, a light oaky vanilla and just a bare wisp of clove. In general, light and airy, earthy and crisp, like standing in a field of ripe grain. Had you told me this was a fine Speyside single malt like Craggenmore 12, I'd have believed you.

By the way the look of this spirit was mezmerizing - a simply stunning golden light amber, with a smoothly oily look and an unexpected fine green edge. As far as the palate, the entry was smooth and sweet, with a near pineapple quality. But the "wisp" of clove I mentioned now accelerated with some immediate and striking heat. Spicy hot white pepper and clove came forth to dominate the midpalate, and then another surprise. The Le Diciotto Lune again smooths out for a glowing warm, smooth/sweet tropical, almost candylike finish and aftertaste that well reflects the original aroma.

If I graphed this it would be like a typical bell curve, gradually growing to maximum effect, then smoothly returning to the baseline. The aftertaste featured a deep and glowing pineapple, and possibly an overripe black banana.

In sum, I found Le Diciotto Lune unusual and reminiscent of a fine cachaca. It was both intense and smoothly well-balanced, and is really a spirit that needs to be savored over time. The promotional material stresses the use of either a tulip or snifter - we used our usual, small apple-shaped tasting glasses. This fine spirit just keeps going and in my opinion, has been done to perfection. Sophisticated and unusual, fascinating and with a well balanced sweet/heat that marks many of the great spirits.
Me:

When Sue Sea and I taste we have a pretty firm routine. Don't discuss the literature or read other reviews. Give one another the chance to nose - then discuss - then nose - then discuss until we feel we "have it". Then onto taste where we discuss the early-middle-late palate, finish and aftertaste. Having torn the spirit apart we return to the flow, development, balance and try to define the overall experience.

With that in mind, please know that I share most of Sue Sea's talented impressions, but would like add some technical and other notes. Le Diciotto Lune opens like a light, low peat, fruity single malt. There are resinous, woody tones which I am sure emanate from the fact that the distiller actually blends grappa aged in four different woods: French Oak (spicy), Acacia, Cherry and Ash. The French Oak comes from the Bordeaux region.

I would add a pleasant herbaceous, medicinal woodiness, now not unexpected. Scotch reviewers would class this spirit as a restorative.

Additionally, the sourcing of eight respected grape varietals also lend themselves to a spirit of unusual and subtle complexity. When you have to work to extract the elements, the distiller has succeeded, in this case magnificently. We both exclaimed over its smooth, oily appearance in the glass and smooth mouthfeel. Nice.

Despite its fine light aroma, the palate quickly turns hot, like a newly lit gas burner. In other words, a bit of an alcohol shock - but one which you should ignore. This sensation is not atypical of certain fine spirits - especially higher proof fine scotch whisky - and will fade after a sip or two.

Skipping to the finish, Le Diciotto Lune is deeply fruity, woody and warm, and leaves a wonderfully glowing, deep black banana aftertaste. All in all, this was a rare opportunity to taste and review a fine spirit that can hold it's own with a fine single malt whisky or an exceptional pure rum.

Summary
: Le Diciotto Lune is a sophisticated fine spirit that exemplifies purity in small batch production, and that should be appreciated by demanding rum and whisky afficianados.


Rating (10 is best): solid 8.
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